Results 21 to 30 of 36
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03-09-2013, 05:48 AM #21
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03-09-2013, 06:10 AM #22
Being used to the Hobart welders (HH140 & 210), I found the rear switch on the Multimatic 200 inconvenient at first. Now, I find myself looking for the switch in the rear for my AirForce 250 plasma cutter and then remembering...it's in the front. I'm so confused!
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03-10-2013, 07:01 PM #23
OK But none of those applies to the 211. Did you look at the pics I posted?Drinking lemonade near the welder is a potential safety issue. Using an auto-darkening lens instead of a true shade is a potential safety issue. Welding is a potential safety issue.
The point is: if Miller built the machine with the switch on the front, it would be as safe as anything else about the machine. So the safest thing for Miller customers is for Miller to revise that design so we don't have to do it ourselves. If it takes a relay in the back & a low-current switch on the front, DO that. Personally, I don't think that's necessary on the 211. I think longer factory wires would pass any standard of safety & performance. What are we talking about - another $1-30 worth of parts on a $1000 machine?I don't doubt for a moment that you know what you're talking about, and that there's some regulation mandating your switch location. But you worded that wrong... "Exposed inside" doesn't make sense. Wires inside a machine case are less-exposed than those outside, so if a long power wire is an issue, the external cord would be the larger problem.Last edited by Steve83; 03-12-2013 at 12:38 AM.
Walk softly & carry a BIG SIX ! ! !
MM211 + SM100
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03-11-2013, 06:28 PM #24
Who the h**l woke-up those certification guys at ul and csa who slept all these years letting manufacturer put the switch where it belongs?
Now i'm scared of my machines with front panel switches
hope my laptop is not on their list
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03-11-2013, 07:44 PM #25
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Guess I don't quite understand where any confusion is, a miller rep just cleared the issue why some units have the switch poisoned at the rear of the machine.
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03-11-2013, 08:54 PM #26
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MillerMatic 251
CST 280 w/tig torch
HF-251-D1
Cutmaster 42
Victor Journeyman OA
A rockcrawler, er money pit, in progress...
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03-11-2013, 09:26 PM #27
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No, miller Kevin.
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03-11-2013, 09:29 PM #28
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Whoops, I went back and saw that post now. Ok, sweet! Also a good explanation. My ADD kicked in and I skipped it.
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03-12-2013, 12:44 AM #29
Here's another cheap effective solution: the electrical switch can be at the back safely certified INSIDE the case, and a safe certifiable inexpensive pushrod mechanism can link it to a front-panel button/knob. Home stereo amps have been built that way for decades.
Walk softly & carry a BIG SIX ! ! !
MM211 + SM100
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03-12-2013, 07:51 AM #30
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Your right Steve, they could do that. But they don't...and I'm sure it is because a mix of all the reasons listed in this thread. Mostly I'm sure the bean counters would not authorize that costly of a modification (only a few bucks), auto manufactures have engineers quibble over fasteners which cost cents, and that is for a 20k+ vehicle. Surely $1-3 of parts on a $900 welder is out of the question, especially if it is not necessary.
Also, I would be more frustrated if that front switch failed because some janky remote rod system had been implemented, instead of just putting a regular switch located somewhere else on the machine.
I don't necessarily like the rear switch or anything, but I understand the world we have created. Safety concerns and cost of manufacturing are often the two predominant traits when developing a product.












