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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    greenfield new hampshire
    Posts
    876

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    6013 is not a rod that people burning rod for a living will use, the thing that makes it a good starter rod is that is is easy to restart, it has no digging qualities, notice the slag pocket that wont go away, when you get that, stop and grind it out, you also would be better served upping the rod size to one eight, 3/32 is a ***** in any form compared to the same rod of greater size. good looking welds though, have fun, it takes time

  2. #12

    Default Need Constructive criticism...

    I like what Kevin said. 1/8 rod would be a lot better. Learn control as you find the right settings and you will see a difference. There are rods used on a daily basis that take practice and knowledge along with time.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    375

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    Not bad for your first attempt. As others said, I would increase your heat to try to get a "flatter" weld profile and get the "toes" (sides) to "wet in" a little better.

    You might also want to try some more "standard" rods for learning, since those will be the ones you end up using most – 6011 and 7018 (you'll need 7018AC for an AC-only machine). I'm not a big fan of 6013.

    Keep at it and good luck.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    greenfield new hampshire
    Posts
    876

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    good point on going to 7018 and 6011, those are the bread and butter rods of stick welding, those 2 rods have different welding techniques, one is a drag, the other, 6011, is a whip, learning 6011 is very important, once you get good, with 6011, you can do more than just weld with it, you can trim steel with the rod, i could go on and on , you get the point

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Atl, Ga
    Posts
    371

    Default

    I'm not fond of AC stick and I'm not fond of 6013 but it's a relatively easy rod to learn with and it's ideal for non-structural welds using a low cost AC power supply. It does run a little differently. The main trick to running 6013 is to run a more pronounced drag angle (30 degrees vs the usual 10-15 degrees) than you normally would with most other rods like 7018 . 6013 slag is pretty thick and sluggish, so the "more angled" drag angle helps push the slag out of the way which will help keep those slag pockets you're getiing from forming.

    There is a video on Youtube made by TWI in England that is just about tailor-made for what you're learning. It's entirely done using a very similar light duty machine to yours and everything's done with 6013. They even have a little welding table project towards the end. Took me a minute to find it, because it's listed under MMA (UK term) instead of stick or SMAW, but here you go:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWdgEaXWDxQ
    2007 Miller Dynasty 200 DX
    2005 Miller Passport 180

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    greenfield new hampshire
    Posts
    876

    Default

    thats a good piece of info mr. 57, about increasing the drag angle, i bet it will help with the slag pockets while using 7014, i assume that an increase in amps is advisable, due to the amount of rod exposed in the puddle

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Atl, Ga
    Posts
    371

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by kevin View Post
    thats a good piece of info mr. 57, about increasing the drag angle, i bet it will help with the slag pockets while using 7014, i assume that an increase in amps is advisable, due to the amount of rod exposed in the puddle
    If you try it with 7018 you'll get a very crowned terrible looking bead, but with 6013, 7014, and 7024 it works. There's always a lot of debate on this because most pro welders in the US don't use 6013 very often and will often berate it as "junk" or "farmer rod". We're trained with 6010/6011 and 7018 and that's 99% of what we use at work so we're very comfortable with it. You don't build skyscrapers with 6013, but it does have legit uses, so it's a good rod to know how to run.

    It's very difficult to put in "noobie friendly terms" but I can make comparisons if you're somewhat proficient with 7018.

    Travel speed - move faster than you would with 7018

    Angle - run a more exagerrated drag angle than you would with 7018

    Arc length - tighter than you would with 7018. 6013, 7014, and 7024 are all considered "contact rods". It's perfectly OK to drag them along with the flux contacting the surface of base metal. With 7024 in particular there's a LOT of flux/slag, drag technique with a heavy angle is preferred or else you're just about asking for slag inclusions.

    Manipulation - smooth straight line or very light weave. If you have to make a wide weave or multiple stringers you shouldn't really be using 6013 to begin with. No exagerrated motions or whip and pause (6011 technique) ever.

    Amps- Depends on polarity you're running. I like to run 6013 on the higher/hotter end of the spectrum. it's a light penetrating rod designed to be run quickly on gauge thickness materials, Don't be scared to crank up the amps and boogie. See notes on polarity.

    Polarity - 6013 is actually intended to be run on AC or DCEN
    (straight polarity) . Perfect for light penetration and quick travel speeds. If you run them hot on DCEN, instead of DCEP (like you would for 7018) it sort of "cancels out" the crowning you would normally get from the increased drag angle and you'll still get decent penetration. You can run 6013 DCEP if you prefer, but it's one of the only rods you'll find that generally runs better DCEN. Same guidelines generally apply to 7014.

    That's as accurately as I can describe it in words, any comments/critiques are welcome.
    2007 Miller Dynasty 200 DX
    2005 Miller Passport 180

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    greenfield new hampshire
    Posts
    876

    Default

    welding skills for the fast fill rods has been almost terminated in most shops, due to the age of flux core, i have run miles of 7024, to be honest, i miss it, but now working for myself, i have not run into a job that really could use the 7024 rod, i like stick welding, i prerfer stick welding when the job can not break, under any circumstances, but i feel that the world is passing us rod burners by, it seams like more shops are going to the mig process more and more, i am not to hot on mig welding, its ok, it has its place,

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    London
    Posts
    21

    Default

    This looks good considerinbg you have no priror experience. I suggest you to keep practicing and I am sure you will learn much quicker.

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