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  1. #1

    Default Question about weld grinding for best appearance

    Hello,
    I am building a bumper for my truck and butt welding the joints. when i grind a V joint top and bottom and weld on top and bottom, i get a valley on top of the 2 pieces. When i try to grind the top surface for cosmetic purposes. I end up grinding the surrounding metal because the weld ends up being lower in the valley.
    When i grind a V only on the bottom and weld from the bottom, i get penetration through the top but when i grind that small protrusion flat, I find that there is still a bit of a valley and i end up grinding more of a valley to get a smooth appearance.
    I have attached hand drawings.
    My question is what is the best butt weld/grinding technique to use to get a nice flat appearance on the outside weld.
    Using Miller 180 autoset.

    Thanks in advance for your help.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by digitalwelder; 02-08-2013 at 12:05 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Los Angeles
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    2,859

    Default

    What abrasive are you using for the grinding?

    A Flap Disc will do the job, you still have to watch how you remove the weld bead though but they sure are a lot better than a Grinding wheel
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
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    782

    Default

    I use 3" maroon surface conditioning discs and a air powered 3" grinder when I want to get a nice look. I would use a #60 flapper to take off most of the weld and finish with the less aggressive surface conditioning discs.

    http://abrasives4sale.com/qc_discs_scd.htm
    Last edited by tackit; 02-08-2013 at 01:50 PM.

  4. #4

    Default

    i'll try the flap disks and the surface conditioning disk. Thanks.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    110

    Default

    GREAT timing and question - thanks! So I was just asked today to repair a metal bracket for some family that is about 3/4" thick. The weld is going to be a butt weld - I was planning on grinding a bevel on all "four" edges - top and bottom side and then using my Thunderbolt 225 XL to run a root pass of 6010 in each side then maybe 7018 pass over the top and grind it down (now with a flap disk first) - cosmetically it doesn't really matter- but I do need to make both sides flat/smooth. Does this sound like the proper repair process?

    Thanks in advance - and sorry for hijacking your thread - but it's basically the exact same question!

    john
    Miller Thunderbolt 225 AC/DC
    Millermatic 211 Auto/MVP

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    North Central Indiana
    Posts
    782

    Default

    A lot has to do with grinder control and technique. I finish some jobs by lightly going over the work in circles so I don't create a groove.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    northern NJ
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    1,846

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jfk92 View Post
    GREAT timing and question - thanks! So I was just asked today to repair a metal bracket for some family that is about 3/4" thick. The weld is going to be a butt weld - I was planning on grinding a bevel on all "four" edges - top and bottom side and then using my Thunderbolt 225 XL to run a root pass of 6010 in each side then maybe 7018 pass over the top and grind it down (now with a flap disk first) - cosmetically it doesn't really matter- but I do need to make both sides flat/smooth. Does this sound like the proper repair process?

    Thanks in advance - and sorry for hijacking your thread - but it's basically the exact same question!

    john
    I would use a full size grinder with a 7" wheel followed by a 36 grit disc if you need that nice of a finish. I used to do that all the time. A lot of it is grinder control as mentioned. Don't dig with the edge. Smaller grinders are also easier to get a valley with if your not careful.
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  8. #8

    Default jfk92

    John why are you using 6010? Are you doing an open root then capping it with 7018? Why not just do a 30 degree bevel and butt them and just run 7018. Joe

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    28

    Default

    There seems to be a lot of concern about your grinding but if I understand it correctly, you're lacking filler material. You either need to make another pass or two or use a weave on the top weld so that there is sufficient material to fill the void.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2012
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    110

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JMK WELDING View Post
    John why are you using 6010? Are you doing an open root then capping it with 7018? Why not just do a 30 degree bevel and butt them and just run 7018. Joe
    Hey Joe! Was looking for your input! I was only thinking a root of 6010 as that is what I've been taught as standard practice for structural joints - with 6010 to get 'better penetration' thus used as the root. But I wasn't sure it was necessary - or if it differs from a butt joint to a fillet weld joint. I think I might forget about the 6010 and just run a couple 7018's - it'll be easier for me!
    Miller Thunderbolt 225 AC/DC
    Millermatic 211 Auto/MVP

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