Hello,
I am building a bumper for my truck and butt welding the joints. when i grind a V joint top and bottom and weld on top and bottom, i get a valley on top of the 2 pieces. When i try to grind the top surface for cosmetic purposes. I end up grinding the surrounding metal because the weld ends up being lower in the valley.
When i grind a V only on the bottom and weld from the bottom, i get penetration through the top but when i grind that small protrusion flat, I find that there is still a bit of a valley and i end up grinding more of a valley to get a smooth appearance.
I have attached hand drawings.
My question is what is the best butt weld/grinding technique to use to get a nice flat appearance on the outside weld.
Using Miller 180 autoset.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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02-08-2013, 11:56 AM #1
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Question about weld grinding for best appearance
Last edited by digitalwelder; 02-08-2013 at 12:05 PM.
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02-08-2013, 01:41 PM #2
What abrasive are you using for the grinding?
A Flap Disc will do the job, you still have to watch how you remove the weld bead though but they sure are a lot better than a Grinding wheelEd Conley
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02-08-2013, 01:47 PM #3
I use 3" maroon surface conditioning discs and a air powered 3" grinder when I want to get a nice look. I would use a #60 flapper to take off most of the weld and finish with the less aggressive surface conditioning discs.
http://abrasives4sale.com/qc_discs_scd.htmLast edited by tackit; 02-08-2013 at 01:50 PM.
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02-08-2013, 02:13 PM #4
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i'll try the flap disks and the surface conditioning disk. Thanks.
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02-08-2013, 02:43 PM #5
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GREAT timing and question - thanks! So I was just asked today to repair a metal bracket for some family that is about 3/4" thick. The weld is going to be a butt weld - I was planning on grinding a bevel on all "four" edges - top and bottom side and then using my Thunderbolt 225 XL to run a root pass of 6010 in each side then maybe 7018 pass over the top and grind it down (now with a flap disk first) - cosmetically it doesn't really matter- but I do need to make both sides flat/smooth. Does this sound like the proper repair process?
Thanks in advance - and sorry for hijacking your thread - but it's basically the exact same question!
johnMiller Thunderbolt 225 AC/DC
Millermatic 211 Auto/MVP
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02-08-2013, 03:16 PM #6
A lot has to do with grinder control and technique. I finish some jobs by lightly going over the work in circles so I don't create a groove.
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02-08-2013, 04:42 PM #7
I would use a full size grinder with a 7" wheel followed by a 36 grit disc if you need that nice of a finish. I used to do that all the time. A lot of it is grinder control as mentioned. Don't dig with the edge. Smaller grinders are also easier to get a valley with if your not careful.
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02-08-2013, 05:38 PM #8
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jfk92
John why are you using 6010? Are you doing an open root then capping it with 7018? Why not just do a 30 degree bevel and butt them and just run 7018. Joe
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02-08-2013, 06:19 PM #9
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There seems to be a lot of concern about your grinding but if I understand it correctly, you're lacking filler material. You either need to make another pass or two or use a weave on the top weld so that there is sufficient material to fill the void.
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02-09-2013, 06:23 AM #10
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Hey Joe! Was looking for your input! I was only thinking a root of 6010 as that is what I've been taught as standard practice for structural joints - with 6010 to get 'better penetration' thus used as the root. But I wasn't sure it was necessary - or if it differs from a butt joint to a fillet weld joint. I think I might forget about the 6010 and just run a couple 7018's - it'll be easier for me!
Miller Thunderbolt 225 AC/DC
Millermatic 211 Auto/MVP


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