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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,915

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    Well, the idea is to cool the head first and arc cable second. If you try to cool the arc cable first, the water has to sit there get super heated before it gets to the torch head due the resistance of the water entering the cable with the current carrying cable. Where as if the cables are connected right, the return pressure is at the torch head.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shovelon View Post
    You could unscrew the big power cable nut at the machine, and turn on.

    The only way to confirm if the pump motor is overheating is to watch for it. Are there fan louvers to tape strands of paper over?
    Think I've got it figured out, flushed the whole system multiple times. Lots of algae and flakes of crusty hose fittings that plug into the top of the reseviour. Everything seems to be flowing normally now. Dave @ Miller tech was a big help.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesystem View Post
    I could not see why it would blow if it was backwards flow is flow right ? As long as it don't stop ? Sorry to jack your thread
    No worries!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8

    Thumbs up

    Anyone have experience with using a 'braided rubber' power lead? I think I've got my flow issues worked out, but I'm still running pretty high heat (310A) and don't want to buy anymore vinyl hoses. Seems the braided rubber may be a bit tougher... or is there something better?

    Also, the clear housing for the coolant strainer recently turned milky white. I'm at a loss...? Anyone? Only thing I changed was going from Low-Conductive coolant to Distilled water. Weird.

    Thanks for everyones help.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,168

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by metalslayer View Post
    Anyone have experience with using a 'braided rubber' power lead? I think I've got my flow issues worked out, but I'm still running pretty high heat (310A) and don't want to buy anymore vinyl hoses. Seems the braided rubber may be a bit tougher... or is there something better?

    Also, the clear housing for the coolant strainer recently turned milky white. I'm at a loss...? Anyone? Only thing I changed was going from Low-Conductive coolant to Distilled water. Weird.

    Thanks for everyones help.
    I use the rubber hoses with the braided sheath. I love them and is worth running because of the flexibility. But beware, the braided sheath breaks down right where they come out of the torch handle from rubbing. I beef them up with fray-check or shoe-goo.
    Nothing welded, Nothing gained

    Miller Dynasty700DX
    3 ea. Miller Dynasty350DX
    Miller Dynasty200DX
    ThermalArc 400 GTSW
    MillerMatic350P
    MillerMatic200 with spoolgun
    MKCobraMig260
    Lincoln SP-170T
    Linde UCC305 (sold 2011)
    Hypertherm 1250
    Hypertherm 800
    PlasmaCam CNC cutter
    Fadal Toolroom CNC Mill
    SiberHegner CNC Mill
    2 ea. Bridgeport
    LeBlond 15" Lathe
    Haberle 18" Cold Saw
    Doringer 14" Cold Saw
    6 foot x 12 foot Mojave granite

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shovelon View Post
    I use the rubber hoses with the braided sheath. I love them and is worth running because of the flexibility. But beware, the braided sheath breaks down right where they come out of the torch handle from rubbing. I beef them up with fray-check or shoe-goo.
    Nice, thanks. Any high-heat resistant properties to the rubber hose as opposesd to the vinyl?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    1,168

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by metalslayer View Post
    Nice, thanks. Any high-heat resistant properties to the rubber hose as opposesd to the vinyl?
    It's been so long, I really can't answer that.
    Nothing welded, Nothing gained

    Miller Dynasty700DX
    3 ea. Miller Dynasty350DX
    Miller Dynasty200DX
    ThermalArc 400 GTSW
    MillerMatic350P
    MillerMatic200 with spoolgun
    MKCobraMig260
    Lincoln SP-170T
    Linde UCC305 (sold 2011)
    Hypertherm 1250
    Hypertherm 800
    PlasmaCam CNC cutter
    Fadal Toolroom CNC Mill
    SiberHegner CNC Mill
    2 ea. Bridgeport
    LeBlond 15" Lathe
    Haberle 18" Cold Saw
    Doringer 14" Cold Saw
    6 foot x 12 foot Mojave granite

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by shovelon View Post
    It's been so long, I really can't answer that.
    Cheers, thanks!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    3

    Default

    My 250 DX I have in my shop was developing leaks with the rubber hoses that came with the machine. When I purchased a replacement hose, I bought the vinyl hose instead of rubber and that cured the problem for me.

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