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Thread: Railing

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Railing

    Here's a little job I did the other day. 2" square posts with cast iron caps, 1/2" solid pickets, Punched top and bottom channel which I do, and mould cap for top rail. I primed and customer will paint in spring.
    Capture 1 rrail.JPGCapture 2 rail.JPGCapture 3 rail.JPGcapture 4 rail.jpg
    Nick
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  2. #2

    Default railing

    Nice work looks pretty solid to
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  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Thumbs up

    I have to say looks good. As armor said, very solid.
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  4. #4
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    Default

    I hate wiggly rails. I like the solid feel
    Nick
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  5. #5
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    Default

    Looks nice. What kind of anchors did you use?
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  6. #6
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    Default

    5/16 " wedge anchors. I think that's what they call them. 7/16 nut. Drill a hole, tap them in and tighten. I like them
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
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    Jet Lathe and Mill
    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Salem, NJ
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    271

    Default

    Nice job. How old was that concrete? Aweful brave to be drilling that close to corners with a hammer drill.

    I stopped building rails a few years ago when codes and insurance is getting ridiculous. Does your state require 6" sphere rule for the steps? Just saying because there are railing chaser lawyers also, just like ambulance chasers.

    Edit: that is a REALLY nice picket twister you got. I wish mine had a hand wheel like that. You'll have to show me a few pictures of it.
    Last edited by Country Metals; 01-25-2013 at 11:10 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by monte55 View Post
    Here's a little job I did the other day. 2" square posts with cast iron caps, 1/2" solid pickets, Punched top and bottom channel which I do, and mould cap for top rail. I primed and customer will paint in spring.
    Capture 1 rrail.JPGCapture 2 rail.JPGCapture 3 rail.JPGcapture 4 rail.jpg
    Looks nice, straight, and square which is always a challenge for a straight picket railing,that railing will last for many years ,assuming the concrete holds up.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    561

    Default Railing

    Looks like a clean job. I agree with risky drilling on the corner of steps. Only problem with using tubing and a top channel is they always rust from the inside out, reducing the service life. My preference is to use solid 1" bar for posts and welding the pickets directly to the under side of the molded top. I assume that's what the customer wanted, can't argue with the customer!

  10. #10
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    Raymore Missouri
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    Default

    The top mould cap sits on the top channel which is 1" x1/2" inverted with legs up... before the mould cap is welded on,,,the channel and cap is primed. :The concrete is only a few months old. Easy to drill. I keep my picket spacing less than 4 " on all sections. My railing is nice and plumb but I have no idea what that mass of concrete will do if it should settle off kilter.BTW...all welds on pickets are inside c channel and will not be seen. Much cleaner look.
    Last edited by monte55; 01-25-2013 at 02:48 PM.
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
    Miller Cricket XL
    Millermatic 150 Mig
    Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
    2-O/A outfits
    Jet Lathe and Mill
    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
    DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
    Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
    20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
    Propane Forge
    60" X 60" router/plasma table

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
    Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

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