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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Sierra Nevada
    Posts
    40

    Default DYNASTY 700 Arc Starting is a JOKE

    The hi-frequency starts are non-exsistent. Establishing arc requires either a lot of patients as the arc stumbles continuously, or with a light scratch of the tungsten to the material. I personally own a Maxstar 150 with lift arc and I've been using a similar technique with the Dynasty to get it to start (I'm only comparing arc starting here and I get fed up with $17K+ machine performing the same as a sub $1K unit)

    Miller has replaced the boards in all 5 units once already. The starts were crisp for about a week and slowly trailed off yet again. They were purchased in early 2008. The issue isn't only with AC but DC as well. Maybe I'm missing something here.

    Currently we are welding a ton of Alumium assemblies which require between 320 and 360 Amps. We have a variety of tungsten being used thruought the dapartment, though I choose 1% Zirconiated. Good ground. NEW Speedway 320 torch, almost 20 CFH on the argon, and no contaminated tungsten. Additionally, I wait for the tungsten to properly cool before repositioning after exstinguishing the arc.

    The Dynastys are great machines however this issue is quite time consuming

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Whitby / Ontario
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Wow that sounds bad, could be an opportunity for miller to do some r&d and find out what the problem is and fix the issue, i had the same problem with a lincoln precision tig 375 with welding lost of aluminum castings and the high freq would be be hit and miss

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    CT.
    Posts
    333

    Default

    There is even a miller rep. out there on youtube stating to touch the work before striking an arc. I do it as second nature with my 300DX machine.
    Miller Dynasty 300DX
    HTP MIG 240
    HTP 380 Plasma

    Bridgeport Milling Machine
    South Bend Lathe
    Etc. Etc....
    tjsperformance.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,534

    Default

    I have a pre-Blue Lightning 700 as well
    #1 I wouldn't use zirc. on that machine. Use what is recommended. I use lanthanated. I use GOLD but blue should hold up even better. Just what my LWS carries. Ceriated (orange) is also rated well with some people, including Miller.
    If you let the tungsten form a ball it will have the starting issues much more. It should be pointed. Zirconiated is known to form a nice ball for the old transformer machines. I have a pile of it still laying around from back in the day. (2%)
    Get rid of it.....it's junk on that machine. Unless you have it set on sine and all that goes with it like 50% balance and 60 frequency I see no good choosing that

    #2 You can simply touch the cup to the work before you light off and it normally helps a ton

    #3 Why do you need to wait for your tungsten to cool? Sounds like a waste of argon to me

    I also had my boards changed on my machine as well and no problems since. Altho it was an upgrade not a starting issue.
    I hope you get this problem solved quickly....good luck.
    HTH!
    Garry
    Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
    MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
    Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

    Miller Bobcat 225 NT
    Miller 30-A Spoolgun
    Miller WC-115-A
    Miller Spectrum 300
    Miller Spoolmate 200
    Miller 225 Thunderbolt
    SPEEDGLAS 9100XX

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Use 2% lanthanated or ceriated ground to a 30deg. blunted point. Change your coolant,use low conductive coolant,and I think in the hidden menu you can make an adjustment for tungsten size.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    107

    Default

    Unfortunately there's nothing that can be done about it.
    When my friend bought his pre "blue lightning" Dynasty 350 we referred to it as the most expensive scratch start Tig money can buy. (we were wrong, obviously the pre blue lightning Dyn 700 was)
    We tried all the internal settings to no avail. Boards were swapped by the Miller techs and we then tried another 2 machines until the local welding dealer finally sourced a Blue Lightning machine and it was ok from then on.
    It was a very frustrating exercise for us particularly since we've been used to excellent start characteristics from some of the European and Japanese inverter Tigs we also use.
    The blue lightning Dyn 350 though is a truly fantastic machine.
    Regards Andrew from Oz.
    We are tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.

    Miller Dynasty 350 Tig.
    OTC AVP300 AC/DC 300 amp hybrid wave Tig. (now retired)
    Kemppi MLS 2300 230amp AC/DC Tig for home with all the bells and whistles.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Have you talked to anyone from Miller Service to see if there is a HF coupling coil Modifcation you can do like on the Maxstar 200s and Dynasty 200s. Its very simple and it really makes a difference in the starting. Just add one extra wrap on the ferrite core for a total of 4 1/2 turns and regap points to .016 as per Miller field FORM: F217 608E. This for all Maxstar 200s and Dynasty 200s with Serial Numbers Between LC374378 And LJ280221L

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SW Ohio
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ironrail View Post
    Use 2% lanthanated or ceriated ground to a 30deg. blunted point. Change your coolant,use low conductive coolant ...
    How does the coolant help? My 300DX has had the same problem from day one.

    Thanks
    Dynasty 300DX
    MM350P
    Hobart Handler 120
    Smith LW7, MW1, AW1
    Smith AR/He Mixer

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TJS View Post
    There is even a miller rep. out there on youtube stating to touch the work before striking an arc. I do it as second nature with my 300DX machine.
    I do that also with my Sync250 and it seems to make arc starting more reliable.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,690

    Default

    I have approximately a 7 year old dynasty 300DX that does the samething and I use the low conductive coolant from Miller so I dont think coolant is the issue as one person mentioned.
    I use the 2% Lanthanated ( The gold Band ) The type that came with the machine.

    I've kinda gotten use to having to scratch the tungsten on my work piece before hitting the pedal.

    I also agree that its a little time consuming having to do this when trying to get the job done.

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