What kind of paint for my trailer?

[Frank R]

I will be welding up a sturdy 4x8 utility trailer that has a drop-bed feature. I need recommendations on paint. Here are the criteria:

• I will be storing it outside.
• It must be very durable; Rustoleum will not do; I have that on my current trailer.
• Must be gloss black.
• Looking at epoxy primers.
• Looking at two-part urethane finishes or epoxy for the top coat.
• Not spray-applied. I will roll and tip the finish (roll it on and tip off any bubbles with a brush).
• No need for supplied-air type respirators; organic cartridges for vapors and mists will be used. I know some high-tech commercial finishes need special filters and even booths for ventilation because they are so toxic to brain cells; I don't want that.
• Applied in a heated garage in a Michigan December.
• Would prefer it in quarts, gallons if I must, but not 5-gallon pails.
• Did I mention durable and glossy black?

I got a quote from a commercial painting service that does agricultural equipment for $500, which seems high for a little trailer with a wood bed. They use a Sherwin-Williams epoxy primer with a two-part urethane top coat, spray applied. I looked up the products and they are only available in five-gallon pails.

I have worked with epoxy coatings in the past while building wooden boats and coating my garage floor. I am familiar with their working characteristics. I like the durability and the low odor.

Any recommendations?

[gnforge]

Worked in body shop that also did welding & fabricating. We painted everything from V-W's to tractor trailers including farm equipment. That was 25 years ago so I'm not up on the latest methods.
But in my experience adhesion to the metal is the major failure not the paint braking down.
What we found to work best was to sand blast metal, then use a metal acid to etch metal then applied a zinc chromate primer, sealer then paint.
My pick for paint on trailers (for durability & longevity) was the old faithful, straight or as we called it synthetic enamel with a catalyst. It is not as hard as the urethane's so it will scratch easier but is less prone to cracking or chipping. It is what they used on farm equipment for many years. Also cheaper.
I'm not a expert just a old timer.

[Metal Magician]

If I want somthing to have a durable finish that is painted on with a roller and brush I just paint it with a truck bed liner, but Im not sure if thats the finish you would desire. It is very durable though. Im no expert just my .02 cents

MM

[Rezeppa]

Ok I work in Detroit so I understand the Michigan weather. You are way over thinking this Frank. Real simple go to tractor supply or another hardware and get some red oxide primer and a couple gallons of tractor and implement enamel paint 2 coats primer 3 coats paint. If you sandblast/wire wheel the trailer it will hold up the best for the money. We paint a lot of trailers and equipment at work when we get slow and don't want to pay someone. The good news is it holds up better rolled than sprayed.

[eecervantes83]

Sound like you need/want a stainless Steel trailer

[Dmaxer]

For the red oxide primer, I've not found one that works better than Rust Destroyer (certainly better than Rustoleum's red oxide). You can buy it here in CA in quarts at about $25. I prefer to roll and brush too. Good luck!

[Frank R]

Ok I work in Detroit so I understand the Michigan weather. You are way over thinking this Frank. Real simple go to tractor supply or another hardware and get some red oxide primer and a couple gallons of tractor and implement enamel paint 2 coats primer 3 coats paint. If you sandblast/wire wheel the trailer it will hold up the best for the money. We paint a lot of trailers and equipment at work when we get slow and don't want to pay someone. The good news is it holds up better rolled than sprayed.

Sorry, but I am going to have to disagree. I have done the enamel route and I am not satisfied with the long term results.

I have a few spots of epoxy on my driveway from where I was coating some wood pieces. Two years later and it is still holding tenaciously. A two-part urethane top coat should be also durable and prevent the epoxy from yellowing.

There is a reason the shop I called uses that system; it works well.

I am looking for brand names of products to use; hopefully in quart sizes.

[Rezeppa]

Cool I would like to learn more. let me know what you come up with. If you find something reasonable that works great please let me know. I have always gone the enamel route due to costs and longevity. It just seems like that is what everyone does, but if two part epoxy paints are so much more superior let me know the details so I can try it.

[Sberry]

We use industrial Imron for outdoor equipmnt, its bout 10 times as good as common enamels.

[kiwi]

I did not know that you could brush or roll Imron. We always sprayed it in the shop I worked at.
Nick