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  1. #1

    Default What kind of paint for my trailer?

    I will be welding up a sturdy 4x8 utility trailer that has a drop-bed feature. I need recommendations on paint. Here are the criteria:

    • I will be storing it outside.
    • It must be very durable; Rustoleum will not do; I have that on my current trailer.
    • Must be gloss black.
    • Looking at epoxy primers.
    • Looking at two-part urethane finishes or epoxy for the top coat.
    • Not spray-applied. I will roll and tip the finish (roll it on and tip off any bubbles with a brush).
    • No need for supplied-air type respirators; organic cartridges for vapors and mists will be used. I know some high-tech commercial finishes need special filters and even booths for ventilation because they are so toxic to brain cells; I don't want that.
    • Applied in a heated garage in a Michigan December.
    • Would prefer it in quarts, gallons if I must, but not 5-gallon pails.
    • Did I mention durable and glossy black?


    I got a quote from a commercial painting service that does agricultural equipment for $500, which seems high for a little trailer with a wood bed. They use a Sherwin-Williams epoxy primer with a two-part urethane top coat, spray applied. I looked up the products and they are only available in five-gallon pails.

    I have worked with epoxy coatings in the past while building wooden boats and coating my garage floor. I am familiar with their working characteristics. I like the durability and the low odor.

    Any recommendations?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Western Pa.
    Posts
    220

    Default What kind of paint for my trailer?

    Worked in body shop that also did welding & fabricating. We painted everything from V-W's to tractor trailers including farm equipment. That was 25 years ago so I'm not up on the latest methods.
    But in my experience adhesion to the metal is the major failure not the paint braking down.
    What we found to work best was to sand blast metal, then use a metal acid to etch metal then applied a zinc chromate primer, sealer then paint.
    My pick for paint on trailers (for durability & longevity) was the old faithful, straight or as we called it synthetic enamel with a catalyst. It is not as hard as the urethane's so it will scratch easier but is less prone to cracking or chipping. It is what they used on farm equipment for many years. Also cheaper.
    I'm not a expert just a old timer.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    9

    Default

    If I want somthing to have a durable finish that is painted on with a roller and brush I just paint it with a truck bed liner, but Im not sure if thats the finish you would desire. It is very durable though. Im no expert just my .02 cents

    MM

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Metro Detroit, MI
    Posts
    182

    Default keep it simple

    Ok I work in Detroit so I understand the Michigan weather. You are way over thinking this Frank. Real simple go to tractor supply or another hardware and get some red oxide primer and a couple gallons of tractor and implement enamel paint 2 coats primer 3 coats paint. If you sandblast/wire wheel the trailer it will hold up the best for the money. We paint a lot of trailers and equipment at work when we get slow and don't want to pay someone. The good news is it holds up better rolled than sprayed.
    Never Satisfied

    Millermatic 211
    Maxstar 150STL
    Metabos
    Kennedy Maintenance Pro Full
    Makita Cordless 18v Li-Ion
    Stihl TS 420

    Timfrank88@live.com

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rezeppa View Post
    Ok I work in Detroit so I understand the Michigan weather. You are way over thinking this Frank. Real simple go to tractor supply or another hardware and get some red oxide primer and a couple gallons of tractor and implement enamel paint 2 coats primer 3 coats paint. If you sandblast/wire wheel the trailer it will hold up the best for the money. We paint a lot of trailers and equipment at work when we get slow and don't want to pay someone. The good news is it holds up better rolled than sprayed.
    Sorry, but I am going to have to disagree. I have done the enamel route and I am not satisfied with the long term results.

    I have a few spots of epoxy on my driveway from where I was coating some wood pieces. Two years later and it is still holding tenaciously. A two-part urethane top coat should be also durable and prevent the epoxy from yellowing.

    There is a reason the shop I called uses that system; it works well.

    I am looking for brand names of products to use; hopefully in quart sizes.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,383

    Default

    We use industrial Imron for outdoor equipmnt, its bout 10 times as good as common enamels.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    729

    Default

    I did not know that you could brush or roll Imron. We always sprayed it in the shop I worked at.
    Nick

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    392

    Default

    You could try POR-15 for a primer. We find it is very durable. A local fertilizer company uses it to prime fertilizer spreaders. In my opinion it is better rolled or brushed. Pay particular attention to the handling warnings though because once it hardens it has to be mechanically removed. You even have to put plastic wrap (2 ply) under the lid after you open it or you can not get the lid off the second time(voice of experience). It is not UV resistant so it must be covered with some other paint to block the UV.
    Meltedmetal

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    356

    Default

    Frank,

    I gather you wish to do the work yourself as we all do.

    Have you considered powder coating?

    My limited experience is from a sculpture I have had outside at a friends NJ shore home for 4 years.

    Fido is all steel. and has held up well.
    Granted, he doesn't get beaten up like your trailer would but when I visit him, he shows no rust.
    His body is the brown powder coating but the other colors are oil based rustoleum and show some flaking.
    Under the flaking, there is still no rust.

    But...........................Fido cost $250 for sand blasting and powder coating so I told him to get a job to pay his way.
    He was buried about 10" deep in sand by Hurricane Sandy but his owners rescued him using a metal detector as he was not microchipped - my fault.

    Anyway, here is the company who did the work for me.

    http://www.brookspowdercoating.com/p...sts/index.html
    Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, Miller Dynasty 350, Hypertherm 1000, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, etc.:

    Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Hermiston Oregon
    Posts
    248

    Default

    Sound like you need/want a stainless Steel trailer
    .
    Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
    Millermatic 211
    Spoolmate 100
    (Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
    Work better & less parts to stock.
    Miller 130xp
    T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
    Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
    2. 4-1/2" grinders
    1. 9" grinder
    14" Makita chop saw
    1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#

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