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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Hollywood, Florida
    Posts
    10

    Default My new weling cart / table

    Finally finished my new welding cart/table. Of course painted True Blue.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    My Day Begins....When Your Day Ends

  2. #2

    Default

    Very nice indeed. I've thought about a combo cart/ table but probably only for tig because I'm too **** to burn up my welder covers! Nice touch with the beer holder! What color blue is, that sail blue rustoleum?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Hollywood, Florida
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jarto017
    Very nice indeed. I've thought about a combo cart/ table but probably only for tig because I'm too **** to burn up my welder covers! Nice touch with the beer holder! What color blue is, that sail blue rustoleum?
    I thought of that too. I think I am going to put some side covers where the welder is to keep it from getting burned. Also going to make some fenders for the rear wheels. And yes it is Sail blue rustoleum.
    My Day Begins....When Your Day Ends

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Hi,
    I am building me a table also and could not decide how thick the top should be. how thick is your top. also did you tape up the top while you painted it.

    Thancks, Eric
    "Why go around the mudhole when you can go through it"

    Miller Bobcat 250

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    377

    Default Welding tables

    I just built a new welding table, but it is not in cart form. I used 1.5" 44W for the top, so it could be used for a jig table. I work with heavy equipment, sometimes in excess of 10 tons, and I need to have the abillity to anchor projects securely while working on them. A thicker table top allows you to drill and tap holes for clamping, and resists distortion.
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    Last edited by JonnyTIG; 07-13-2006 at 11:35 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    375

    Thumbs up what a table!

    That's some table! What does that sucker weigh?
    I'm sure it will come in handy and you won't have to worry about anyone walking off with it *LOL*
    Farris
    Gone But Never Forgotten!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Hollywood, Florida
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by millerpro
    Hi,
    I am building me a table also and could not decide how thick the top should be. how thick is your top. also did you tape up the top while you painted it.

    Thancks, Eric
    The top is 3/8 cold rolled steel 20"x42"

    Don't laugh.....I painted the frame then ground off the paint where the frame would be attached to the top. I laid the top on the floor upside down and put the frame on top of that and welded them together. I wired off the welds then sprayed them blue before i flipped over the table on it's wheels.

    And i think it weighs a good 250#
    My Day Begins....When Your Day Ends

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    18

    Default

    i am trying to keep costs as low as posible so i checked the prices at the metal shop. i was thinking about 1/4 in but they recomended that to keep the costs low i should use 16 gauge sheet. they said it would be about as thick as the fenders of a trailer. i thought that would be pretty strong but if you hammer something on it it would make dents. would 1/4 inch be too thin. it was $110 for a 4x8 sheet. the 16 guage was $45 for a 4x8 sheet. i only need about a 4x4 sheet so i asked if they could sell me half of a sheet and they said that they used to but now most everyone wants a full sheet. also thanks for the painting info. i want the table to look good but still conduct electricity so i will do that.

    Thanks, Eric
    "Why go around the mudhole when you can go through it"

    Miller Bobcat 250

    Miller Syncrowave 200


    Lincoln Pro-Core 100

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    377

    Default welding tables

    That sucker weighs about 2400 lbs, built with 6X6X1/4" H beam frame, 6" Sch 40 legs, 1.25" Gr8 adjuster / leveling bolt foot pads, and a top of 1.5" hot rolled steel. I can put up to 15 tons onto it and not have a worry. And, nobody will walk off with it. In the near future a swing out seat will be added for TIG and gravy jobs, and outlets for power tools, plus a tray for small clamps and jigs. I built it mainly for rebuilding fenders and parts off of D10 CAT dozers and equipment of that nature. The previous table I used had a top made of two 5/8" plates welded together, and heat from rose buds and welding caused it to warp really bad. I also couldn't use a 50 ton hydraullic press on the table without ripping the welds. I dont know how much it cost to build this table, but I know it wont get wrecked by anything that comes it's way. A welder needs a solid flat surface that is level to build things properly, in my opinion anyway.

    As for the budget tables, spending the money on a 1/2" plate for a top is worth it's weight in steel. 1/2" plate will hold threads well if you decide to build clamping jigs or tooling for projects, and it will stay flat for many hours of welding fun.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    375

    Default great table

    Quote Originally Posted by JonnyTIG
    That sucker weighs about 2400 lbs, built with 6X6X1/4" H beam frame, 6" Sch 40 legs, 1.25" Gr8 adjuster / leveling bolt foot pads, and a top of 1.5" hot rolled steel. A welder needs a solid flat surface that is level to build things on.
    I agree with you and this is one dandy table. There have been many many times I could have used a heavy table like yours. The other tables in this thread are nice also but yours really caught my attention.
    Thanks for sharing, Farris
    Gone But Never Forgotten!

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