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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Salem, NJ
    Posts
    271

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snowbird View Post
    I don't remember exactly wich is what but they are named: left flasher, right flasher, parking and GROUND.
    White: Ground
    Brown: Park/Brake
    Yellow: Left Turn
    Green: Right Turn

    The problem with some/most small trailers is they use the fenders/steel for ground, and at your tongue the white/ground is only 12" long. I always run my grounds directly to the light to prevent rusting/dielectric issues.


    Trailer diagram

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    st-eustache qc.canada
    Posts
    186

    Default

    Sorry to disagree but brake and park can not be on same wire since 2 different filaments in bulb are concerned.

    check there for all acurate datas (not from me)

    http://www.offroaders.com/tech/trail...ng-diagram.htm

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    594

    Default

    I had same issue. 3 wires on LED, I took the white wire and grounded it to the metal where light was mounted using a separate screw. I did this at each light and it worked.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Hermiston Oregon
    Posts
    204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Country Metals:296946
    I have never heard of a 3 wire system, only a 4 wire system and I have owned over 8 trailers in my short 15 years. There is flat 4, round 4, round 5, now flat 5, round 6, round 7, soon round 8, air brakes. You need Ground, Blink, Brake, Running. No system that I have ever worked on can have blink and brake on the same wire because they would conflict each other.

    That is probably why the lights don't work when connected on the trailer, and why they do work when blink/brake are disconnected. You are having a conflict on the towing vehicle.
    I have a four wire setup. My leds have 3 wires. And I've tried every way to wire it. = no running light's
    .
    Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
    Millermatic 211
    Spoolmate 100
    (Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
    Work better & less parts to stock.
    Miller 130xp
    T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
    Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
    2. 4-1/2" grinders
    1. 9" grinder
    14" Makita chop saw
    1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    382

    Default

    So if you remove a lamp assembly and jumper it to a battery . white to neg, then either the brake or the running lights will light but not both together?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Salem, NJ
    Posts
    271

    Default

    I was off because I forgot these were LED's.

    If they work properly at battery and not connected on trailer, what vehicle will this be connected to? Just saying because some vehicles have fuses built into just trailer lights. I have seen them in the dash and at the tail end of the vehicle.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    594

    Default

    What make, model ,and year is the vehicle you are connected to ? On some newer vehicles, the LEDs will screw with the pulling vehicle's electronics and not work properly. The LEDs don't pull as much current as incandesants, and the computer will think the bulbs are burned out or unplugged. There are adapter boxes to fix this problem, though. Don't know if this is true or not.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    st-eustache qc.canada
    Posts
    186

    Smile

    your 3 wires are same as the original bulb you replaced. as jiganitor mentioned, if you flow the current the wrong way a led won't work, if they had to be used with a resistor and you did not, they might be burned.

    Were the previous bulbs working in all modes?

    i still have a doubt on the ground...

    image is a thousand words ...here is a basic one. (very very basic ;o) )
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Hermiston Oregon
    Posts
    204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BD1:296980
    What make, model ,and year is the vehicle you are connected to ? On some newer vehicles, the LEDs will screw with the pulling vehicle's electronics and not work properly. The LEDs don't pull as much current as incandesants, and the computer will think the bulbs are burned out or unplugged. There are adapter boxes to fix this problem, though. Don't know if this is true or not.
    Its. A 97 Chevy silverado. I haven't found a fuse dedicated to the towing lights.
    .
    Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
    Millermatic 211
    Spoolmate 100
    (Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
    Work better & less parts to stock.
    Miller 130xp
    T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
    Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
    2. 4-1/2" grinders
    1. 9" grinder
    14" Makita chop saw
    1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Hermiston Oregon
    Posts
    204

    Default

    The regular. Lights worked. But I wanted to upgrade the lights to led. Am I missing something?
    .
    Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
    Millermatic 211
    Spoolmate 100
    (Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
    Work better & less parts to stock.
    Miller 130xp
    T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
    Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
    2. 4-1/2" grinders
    1. 9" grinder
    14" Makita chop saw
    1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#

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