White: Ground
Brown: Park/Brake
Yellow: Left Turn
Green: Right Turn
The problem with some/most small trailers is they use the fenders/steel for ground, and at your tongue the white/ground is only 12" long. I always run my grounds directly to the light to prevent rusting/dielectric issues.
Trailer diagram
Results 11 to 20 of 32
Thread: help with my trailers lighting?
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11-28-2012, 08:07 AM #11
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11-28-2012, 08:56 AM #12
Sorry to disagree but brake and park can not be on same wire since 2 different filaments in bulb are concerned.
check there for all acurate datas (not from me)
http://www.offroaders.com/tech/trail...ng-diagram.htm
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11-28-2012, 09:43 AM #13
Senior Member
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- Oct 2006
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- Illinois
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- 475
I had same issue. 3 wires on LED, I took the white wire and grounded it to the metal where light was mounted using a separate screw. I did this at each light and it worked.
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11-28-2012, 10:30 AM #14
I have a four wire setup. My leds have 3 wires. And I've tried every way to wire it. = no running light's
Originally Posted by Country Metals:296946
.
Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
Millermatic 211
Spoolmate 100
(Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
Work better & less parts to stock.
Miller 130xp
T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
2. 4-1/2" grinders
1. 9" grinder
14" Makita chop saw
1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#
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11-28-2012, 11:23 AM #15
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
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- 247
So if you remove a lamp assembly and jumper it to a battery . white to neg, then either the brake or the running lights will light but not both together?
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11-28-2012, 11:26 AM #16
I was off because I forgot these were LED's.
If they work properly at battery and not connected on trailer, what vehicle will this be connected to? Just saying because some vehicles have fuses built into just trailer lights. I have seen them in the dash and at the tail end of the vehicle.
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11-28-2012, 04:17 PM #17
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Illinois
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What make, model ,and year is the vehicle you are connected to ? On some newer vehicles, the LEDs will screw with the pulling vehicle's electronics and not work properly. The LEDs don't pull as much current as incandesants, and the computer will think the bulbs are burned out or unplugged. There are adapter boxes to fix this problem, though. Don't know if this is true or not.
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11-28-2012, 04:53 PM #18
your 3 wires are same as the original bulb you replaced. as jiganitor mentioned, if you flow the current the wrong way a led won't work, if they had to be used with a resistor and you did not, they might be burned.
Were the previous bulbs working in all modes?
i still have a doubt on the ground...
image is a thousand words ...here is a basic one. (very very basic ;o) )
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11-28-2012, 06:25 PM #19
Its. A 97 Chevy silverado. I haven't found a fuse dedicated to the towing lights.
Originally Posted by BD1:296980
.
Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
Millermatic 211
Spoolmate 100
(Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
Work better & less parts to stock.
Miller 130xp
T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
2. 4-1/2" grinders
1. 9" grinder
14" Makita chop saw
1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#
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11-28-2012, 06:27 PM #20
The regular. Lights worked. But I wanted to upgrade the lights to led. Am I missing something?
.
Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
Millermatic 211
Spoolmate 100
(Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
Work better & less parts to stock.
Miller 130xp
T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
2. 4-1/2" grinders
1. 9" grinder
14" Makita chop saw
1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#



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