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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    northern NJ
    Posts
    1,821

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    Flux core (innershield) wire vs. solid. Flux core generally uses less voltage/amps than the same size in solid. This means you should turn the machine down. Polarity is usually also different between the two. Solid= work lead to - & gun to +. You would switch for flux core most of the time, gun to -. Knurled v-groove rollers work better for flux core as stated above. Smooth v-groove for solid. Flux core uses a longer wire stickout than solid. About 1" for fux, 1/2" for solid. Keep the nozzle on or get a flux core nozzle when running flux core to protect the diffuser. I like splatter spray more than nozzle dip. They sell it at GTS-Welco. No need to soak it, just spray it once in awhile. Get yourself a bunch of extra tips & also a torch tip cleaner to clean your mig tips. No reason to throw them away until they get worn. Don't be afraid to remove the nozzle & clean it with pliers or a screwdriver.

    When changing rolls of wire it's a good idea to blow out the gun with compressed air.

    The above are just generalizations. Check the wire mfg. specs & the door chart is always a good starting point.
    Last edited by MMW; 11-27-2012 at 04:53 AM.
    MM250
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    22a feeder
    Lincoln ac/dc 225
    Victor O/A
    MM200 black face
    Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
    Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
    Arco roto-phase model M
    Vectrax 7x12 band saw
    Miller spectrum 875
    30a spoolgun w/wc-24
    Syncrowave 250
    RCCS-14

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Great tips all.

    I plan on getting a knurled drive roll - I'll search the miller website, cyberweld etc. As per that - I read the manual yesterday afternoon and noticed the 'recommended starting point' for the drive roll pressure arm was a setting of "3" - out of "4". I had mine at "1" even less, possibly 1 1/2 as well. So I went home and cranked it down - and it felt like it took about 300 cranks (exageration) to get it down to the "3" - was not comfortable with that much - might bring it back up to say - "2" next time I run it - but plan on getting a knurled drive roll anyway.

    Splatter spray vs. noz dip - good to know - may just pick up both. Found myself brushing the nozzle gently with a wire brush between runs to get the junk out. also using some mig welding pliers gently.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    northern NJ
    Posts
    1,821

    Default

    With a knurled drive roll you will use less tension. I usually set the tension just past the slippage point. I always try to keep the gun as straight & untwisted as reasonably possible.
    MM250
    Trailblazer 250g
    22a feeder
    Lincoln ac/dc 225
    Victor O/A
    MM200 black face
    Whitney 30 ton hydraulic punch
    Lown 1/8x 36" power roller
    Arco roto-phase model M
    Vectrax 7x12 band saw
    Miller spectrum 875
    30a spoolgun w/wc-24
    Syncrowave 250
    RCCS-14

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Ocala Fl.
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Your 211 is a great welder and the manual for this welder will get you whwre you need to be to set this welder up.If you are useing the Brass nozzle that came with your welder for flux wire?? then you need to change it to the black nozzle for flux wire.As for your drive roll if you open your door on the the welder down on the bottom you will find the part number for the Knurled drive roller. Auto Set will not work with flux wire, and the Auto Set when used with Gas, this setting is something you will have to work with it is not set in stone for the settings.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Wa
    Posts
    531

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jfk92 View Post
    Great tips all.

    I plan on getting a knurled drive roll - I'll search the miller website, cyberweld etc. As per that - I read the manual yesterday afternoon and noticed the 'recommended starting point' for the drive roll pressure arm was a setting of "3" - out of "4". I had mine at "1" even less, possibly 1 1/2 as well. So I went home and cranked it down - and it felt like it took about 300 cranks (exageration) to get it down to the "3" - was not comfortable with that much - might bring it back up to say - "2" next time I run it - but plan on getting a knurled drive roll anyway.
    If you have the tension too light that could lead to slippage which could also be contributing to your spatter problem. There is a correct tension that you must balance. Nobody can say what that may be as wire, rollers, and the tensioner all vary.

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