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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    21

    Default Help... Miller 180SD, No ARC??

    Need some help... I have been using my Miller 180 SD for a couple of months welding some chrome molly. Just last night it stopped, no arc?? The pedal works, gas flows and you hear the machine come on. I sure could use some help here!
    "If you will not, then you can not.."

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    1,215

    Default

    Start with the basics. Check your connections at both ends to make sure they're tight. Check the work clamp and cable too.

    Any HF?

    Will it stick weld?

    Unit SN?
    Last edited by duaneb55; 11-12-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    21

    Unhappy

    Quote Originally Posted by duaneb55 View Post
    Start with the basics. Check your connections at both ends to make sure they're tight. Check the work clamp and cable too.

    Any HF?

    Will it stick weld?

    Unit SN?
    I will try and stick weld with it now... Everything else looks good.
    "If you will not, then you can not.."

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Washinton
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Like he said see if you can stick weld, if so you might have a bad power lead on your tig torch. Hold the torch on the plate, and close the contactor if you read more than 2-3 volts you cable needs to be replace. If the cable is good make sure your foot pedal is working. Check leads C,D,and E on the Amphenol shoud read 10 V DC C/D in from power supply and 10 V DC D/E out from pedal

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    21

    Default

    OK, just tried to STICK Weld, no go! Acts like there is not enough amps, small arc, that's it....
    "If you will not, then you can not.."

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Washinton
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Check you input lines, and check the OCV at the work and ground lugs in stick mode should be around 70-80 V. Amp rheostate may be bad or PC board but pull the cover, power off, and look for obvious signs of failure, burnt or loose PC's or leads. Make sure the input voltage is crossing the points in the contactor when you turn it on in panel, you say it click, but make sure it is tranfering power.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by weldbay View Post
    Check you input lines, and check the OCV at the work and ground lugs in stick mode should be around 70-80 V. Amp rheostate may be bad or PC board but pull the cover, power off, and look for obvious signs of failure, burnt or loose PC's or leads. Make sure the input voltage is crossing the points in the contactor when you turn it on in panel, you say it click, but make sure it is tranfering power.
    I will do that.. makes sense! Thank you!
    "If you will not, then you can not.."

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    21

    Default

    After doing all these tests.... turns out that my torch power cable is bad. That is the one thing that I should of tested first!

    Thanks for all the help guys!
    "If you will not, then you can not.."

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