Millermatic 211 issue

[Broccoli1]

I have read that the arc is harsh when on 220 but the way its welding cant be the way it was designed to perform. Should I try calling support? I will say i am running it on a 30 amp breaker that has a dryer plug socket, i made an extension cord to adapt to the 6-50 that's on the machine. I dont know if there's anything that could cause these issues from that set up but thought i would mention. An electrician is coming and wiring up a new panel in the shop this week, so maybe the issue will resolve itself..hahaha doubt it!

Double check your extension cord, it's possible you did wire in wrong.

[millermetalworx]

I mean is that really possible? Its basically 2 hots and a ground the voltage doesnt care what color the wires are, right? I mean i wouldnt be getting the difference in power if the voltage wasnt different. IDK, ijust want a definitive answer voltage or machine or operator.

[Broccoli1]

I mean is that really possible? Its basically 2 hots and a ground the voltage doesnt care what color the wires are, right? I mean i wouldnt be getting the difference in power if the voltage wasnt different. IDK, ijust want a definitive answer voltage or machine or operator.

The MM211 will run on 208v just fine, I've done it.

Can't hurt to check the ext. cord wiring.

And it could be a bad machine. As I mentioned earlier yours is not the first case of a 211 not working properly on 240v but working on 120v.

[weldbay]

Thanks for setting me straight on the 208, we have a lot of shops that are in industrial parks that have 208 did not think they had 3-phase.

As for the plug, I do not know who wired is shop but you use the same three wire for 120 as you do for 220 you just wire the breaker different.

As for the mach, try it in manual and in auto set, if does not work in either of them PC1 could be bad.

[weldbay]

I realize that I have to prove myself here all the time. On the other hand it is reassuring to find that I am not always wrong:

Electrical Hadbook:

In some multiple-unit residential buildings of North America, three-phase power is supplied to the building but individual units have only single-phase power formed from two of the three supply phases. Lighting and convenience receptacles are connected from either phase conductor to neutral, giving the usual 120 V required by typical North American appliances. In the split-phase system, high-power loads are connected between the opposite "hot" poles, giving a voltage of 240 V. In some cases, they may be connected between phases of a three-phase system, giving a voltage of 208 V. This practice is common enough that 208 V single-phase equipment is readily available in North America. Attempts to use the more common 120/240 V equipment intended for split-phase distribution may result in poor performance since 240 V heating and lighting equipment will only produce 75% of its rating when operated at 208 V. Motors rated at 240 V will draw higher current at 208 V; some motors are dual-labelled for both voltages.

[Broccoli1]

I realize that I have to prove myself here all the time. On the other hand it is reassuring to find that I am not always wrong:

Electrical Hadbook:

In some multiple-unit residential buildings of North America, three-phase power is supplied to the building but individual units have only single-phase power formed from two of the three supply phases. Lighting and convenience receptacles are connected from either phase conductor to neutral, giving the usual 120 V required by typical North American appliances. In the split-phase system, high-power loads are connected between the opposite "hot" poles, giving a voltage of 240 V. In some cases, they may be connected between phases of a three-phase system, giving a voltage of 208 V. This practice is common enough that 208 V single-phase equipment is readily available in North America. Attempts to use the more common 120/240 V equipment intended for split-phase distribution may result in poor performance since 240 V heating and lighting equipment will only produce 75% of its rating when operated at 208 V. Motors rated at 240 V will draw higher current at 208 V; some motors are dual-labelled for both voltages.

Moot point- the MM211 will run on 208v just fine, at least mine did.

So I doubt the problem he is having is a result of 208v

[Doughboyracer]

...that if the outlet or plug is wired incorrectly, (ground wire hot, hot wire ground) the machine WILL NOT FIRE AT ALL...see my first few posts to learn how I know that.

[weldbay]

This is the first 220 mach the poster has run, do you know how many garage welders I have helped that wired their mach with the white still on neutral not on the breaker. You are "positive" he is on 220 you are "positive his input leads are wired correctly, you are"positive" he knows how to go from manual to autoset You are positive he know exactly how the 211 works,

You know you AH's I give I will move on but as I do I will be contact Miller mangagment and complaine about the crap on "THEIR" forum.

Oh and by the way salesman maybe but I have been to Miller 3 times and gone throug thier class still have friends in high places.

KMA check that one cruizer

[Broccoli1]

Who are you talking to?

[Broccoli1]

This is the first 220 mach the poster has run, do you know how many garage welders I have helped that wired their mach with the white still on neutral not on the breaker. You are "positive" he is on 220 you are "positive his input leads are wired correctly, you are"positive" he knows how to go from manual to autoset You are positive he know exactly how the 211 works,

You know you AH's I give I will move on but as I do I will be contact Miller mangagment and complaine about the crap on "THEIR" forum.

Oh and by the way salesman maybe but I have been to Miller 3 times and gone throug thier class still have friends in high places.

KMA check that one cruizer

I'm not sure what has you so fired up but I will address your concerns:

I agree-that a lot of receptacles are wired incorrectly but in THIS case the receptacle is a Dryer receptacle so I assume it is working correctly otherwise his dryer wouldnt work. He made an extension cord to plug into the dryer receptacle so the extension cord connector could be wired incorrectly , just like you think the receptacle could be the problem. so I'm pretty sure it is not the receptacle, but since I can't meter it through the internets it's my best guess

You also mentioned that the poor performance could be due to him having 208v, I disagree since I have a MM211 and have run it on 208v- it works just as it does on 240v. This I'm positive on.

I do not assume he knows how the MM211 works but I think he has a pretty good idea that something is wrong since he has used the welder successfully on 120v.

I've got friends in low places