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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    14

    Default Its alive!..... Alive!!!

    Hello everyone, well after 2 days of scratching my head and thinking that id gotten ripped off buying a used feeder, I finally got it to work, But it don't seem like this is the right way to go about it. perhaps you guys can give me some help?
    first off, The power source is a Regency 250 (KH385729) and the wire feed is a MillerMatic S-32S (JJ434922). so the PS was given to me and told that he didn't even know if it worked cause he had never seen nor had it going and didn't want to put out the money on a feeder and hope for the best. I cleaned it out, replaced the 8 Capacitors in the main assembly,put a new end on the power cord and swapped out the pos.&neg. 115v miller twist lock receptacles.
    Then id found a feeder on craigslist that sounded like a good deal and that's where id gotten the S-32s. but the scary part was i bought it trusting the guy that told me it worked fine. but looked noticeably customized. (even to me) He said he rebuilt the feeder with all new Hobart Handler electronics . as well as added the gas solenoid and contactors.but i didnt get the oppertunity to see the feeder run with my own eyes. ( I know, I know!) Stupid or Lucky right?
    So anyways, after i hooked it all up, the regency's power light would come on and that's about all it would do. the S-32S had no power light (deleted with the mods) so i didn't know if that was getting power at all. So after a night of reading past posts on this and other forums, i gathered up my electrical testing tools and started at the wall receptacle and tested my way through the power source and feeder.
    And then remembered something Cruizer had told me a couple weeks back about a different feeder, and jumping (a and b). at the time i didn't know exactly what he had meant by that. Then shortly after decided not to get that feeder after all so never asked anything else about it.
    So i think i figured out what he meant by it . and please correct me if I'm wrong, just taking a small scrap of wire and connecting two of the pins inside of the 14 pin receptacle?
    at any rate id put two and 2 together and decided to jump the I and J pins. And ill be dipped in **** and go to **** if it didn't work ! but!..
    When i do this the power source makes a pretty loud buzzing sound. non stop. And this being my first real welder. (not just some 120v pos) I'm not sure if this is normal for it to Buzz? Is there something else i should be doing to the ground pins (G and K) as well? And why am i having to jump theses pins at all? it just don't seem right. I mean i know why. its completing the contactor control circuit. it just seems like there should be a switch to power the 14 pin 24v receptacle or another switch for the 115v contactor receptacle. so i guess what I'm looking to find out is. Am i going about this the wrong way all together? And if so, Am i doing damage to the power source or the feeder by running it like this?

    Thanks allot for reading my post everyone. and i appreciate any feedback you can offer me.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,838

    Default

    The buzzing is just the powersourse telling you to replace its contactor with a new one.

    Now "A" & "B" ,and "I" & "J" are the contactor closure signals. "G" is comon to "A" for the 24 Vac supply and to "I" for the 115Vac supply.

    "K" is frame ground.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    14

    Default

    So then the way it was expected to be run was having to plug in a 14 pin cable , or it doesn't allow current to flow? but then why the 115v ac ports?
    Sorry I'm sure it sounds like a silly question, I'm obviously not yet getting my head wrapped around this one.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,838

    Default

    No the Regency WILL NOT WORK unless either jumpered at A&B or I&J, either by a feeder or manually jumpered.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Washinton
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Not sure if you are still having problems but the S32 requires 24 ac from the regency to run and closing of A/B to weld. Cehck the 14 pin plug against the regency sch. and it should weld. The buzz could be the transformer in the contactor, but before you do anything make sure you are wired right. The 115v you mentioned is for wirefeeders that require 115v

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    14

    Default

    That also kinda confused me,i know it says 24 v. but if it were 24v wouldn't it receive that through a 14 pin cable? the S-32s doesn't have a 14 pin connector.
    And i have tested the setup all ready and It looks to be doing a very good weld. thanks again for replying.
    Last edited by seattlejoe; 11-05-2012 at 11:42 PM. Reason: forgot the "t" in the word (it)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,838

    Default

    Don't think its a S32S, as that unit needs the 24Vac FROM the Recency to work. This feeder is a Voltage sensing unit, unknown actual model. So he's jumpered the recency to come on to make the feeder work.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Washinton
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Actually the S32S is a voltage sensing feed, for both CC and CV machines.

    http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o1546m_mil.pdf this will show you how it connects.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,838

    Default

    Never the less, he's jumpered A & B to make the Regency work.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Washinton
    Posts
    56

    Default

    The 14pin plug on the S32S is capable of sending a shorting signal to A & B if it is wired right. Thus the CC/CV capabilities.

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