I see you are in Illinois. I don't what part but here is my local suppliers website in Wisconsin on the Ellis 1600. A couple weeks ago it was $2250.00, now $2495.00.
http://www.weldersupply.com/ Go there and search Ellis
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Thread: band saws
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11-04-2012, 05:49 PM #11
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11-05-2012, 08:34 AM #12
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I'd never tried using Ellis but I've heard that it gives accurate and aggravation-
Originally Posted by three turbos
free cuts and straight cut as well.What's the model of your Ellis?
Oh anyway, you may wanna try checking www.bandsawmanuals.com . I just
discovered this site and I got manual for the band saw I own for free. Hope this might help you also on how to work some stuff with your machine.Last edited by surfside; 11-05-2012 at 08:36 AM.
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11-05-2012, 09:35 AM #13
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What kind of projects do you do? Originally Posted by three turbos
I have the HF bandsaw, and as others mentioned the stand is flimsy needs tweaking etc etc. But I bought a Porta Band and I hardly ever touch my bandsaw anymore. I don't do production runs and I can cut a decent 45˚ and 90˚.
I wish I had purchased the Port-a-band much sooner, worth the $.
http://www.swagoffroad.com
These guys make a decent stand for the Port-a-band saws. I haven't used one but they seem to get pretty good reviews around the Forums.Ed Conley
http://www.screamingbroccoli.net/
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11-05-2012, 10:37 AM #14
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I have one of those "Pacific Basin" 4 X 6 bandsaws. I've had it for more than 10 years and sometimes it cuts straight and sometimes it doesn't. I've never had one of those "ah ha!" moments when trying to get it to cut straight again after it's gone off the rails. I just mess with the guide rollers and hope I can get it straight again. I use Starret blades most of the time--some hardback and some bi-metal and I've not been able to relate straight cutting to a particular blade.
However, today while I was looking at it to figure out why it won't cut straight again I happened to look carefully at the blade and noticed that it's cupped. That is, if you sectioned the blade so you could look at the blade cross section, you'd see it shaped like a ) . I have two blades that won't cut straight and both look like that ). I can't figure out why they have become distorted like that. I usually check the guide rollers and set them tight enough so there isn't a lot of lateral play but not so tight that the blade gets squeezed out.
Has anyone else ever noticed the cup-shaped blade? And if so, has anyone figured out what causes it?
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11-05-2012, 01:30 PM #15
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hmm
Ive had a hf4x6 for quite awhile ive got it to cut perfect with a bimetal blade search Yahoo 4x6 bandsaw group there is a tutorial to get it perfect and many other mods ist a cheap chinese saw it takes a lil work to get perfect thats the difference in 250 vs 1700&up ive cut a bunch with mine and only had to resquare the vise after moving get a good blade and get the downfeed right and you blade shouldn't wander
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11-05-2012, 01:35 PM #16
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The best band saw I ever sold was the Ellis but they are pricey, the next has been a Jet because they are priced right and parts/blades are easy to get.
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11-05-2012, 04:52 PM #17
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Heat... Originally Posted by Dobermann
MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
Just For Home Projects.
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11-05-2012, 06:24 PM #18
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bandsaw
Thanks alot to all of you guys who had some CONSTRUCTIVE input on my situation here, some good info and pointers here to refer back to thats for sure. To whom ever it was that asked what model ellis i used cant realy tell ya it was a friend who does alot of pipe work and we were both welding on the same job. It was his but i can tell you what ever we put in there it cut it like it was nothing!!! Keep in mind this is how he makes his living I do not. The saw I will purchase will be used at home it will be cutting small tubing round, square and angle of course probably in the are of 1/8" on general. Thanks again Eric
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11-06-2012, 11:35 AM #19
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band saws
I am a home shop welder type as you described. Just 2 weeks ago I picked up a HF 4x6 bandsaw for 200 bucks out the door with a 20% coupon. It did not cut straight out of the box. I put an Olson 14/18 vari-tooth, bi-metal blade on it, adjusted the guide rollers, cleaned up the gunk on the vise surface and now it cuts great! I am almost finished with a new stand for it out of 1 1/2 " x 1/8" angle and some locking casters. It is so much better than my noisy, dirty chop saw. Now I can cut in my shop until late at night and not wake the dead. I normally steer clear of bottom of the Harbor freight crap but this one is an exception. There is a lot of info out there on the net which is what helped me decide on purchasing it. For me it fits the bill.
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11-06-2012, 02:27 PM #20
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This question has come up frequently in the past, and the discussions usually included the Grizzly brand. Do yourself a hege favor and check out their saws. I have the modle G9742 that I have used daily for over 7 years without one single problem. I like this model because the head itself swivels for 45 degree cuts, which is a huge advantage in a small shop, as you do not have to move the material itself to get an angle cut.
I will stress that I have used this saw HARD and it still performs well.
Grizzly also has a model with a fixed head that is competitive in price with HF.
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