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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Steph try a pure tungston "green " 3/32 that will give you a wider bead. I use that time to time when needed to give a wide bead. Call ETECH i miami and they have every thing you need to weld anodized aluminum. Paint your welds with there paint it looks really good. Give them a call they are great there.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sorong, Indonesia
    Posts
    62

    Default

    I used 2% Lant, dont have pure in stock. I'll try it next time. Thanks Gaby.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Steph i am doing this on my phone and I cant send pic's. I will get on my lap top and try to send you some.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    107

    Default

    When Sundown111 explained the process he said not to use a foot pedal but a momentary switch on the gun.
    No upslope or downslope, instant maximum heat to move the anodising and form a weld pool, dab the filler and stop then repeat till the weld was done.
    I think your material thickness is going to be your problem as you can't get a weld pool forming instantly and at 200 amps you will still be too cold to get it started.
    I also think that wheels are one thing you don't want to be using the bump weld technique for.
    Bump weld is fine certain structures but in my opinion wheels need to have the anodising mechanically removed around the area to be welded and then weld it from there.
    Regards Andrew from Oz.
    We are tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.

    Miller Dynasty 350 Tig.
    OTC AVP300 AC/DC 300 amp hybrid wave Tig. (now retired)
    Kemppi MLS 2300 230amp AC/DC Tig for home with all the bells and whistles.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,565

    Default

    I agree....poor choice for bumping technique practice. Way too thick. Not gonna get much learned from welding a big casting. Most wheels I have seen here are clear coated over machining/polish. Could easily be mistaken for anodize. Been fixing wheels for many years and don't recall any as anodize. Doesn't mean they aren't out there. Down under may be different.
    Instead, get a big sledge and bust off a big chunk
    Then practice your cast welding instead Just my opinion. Peace

    www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
    Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
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  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sorong, Indonesia
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Thanks Andrew and FusionKing, do you guys have any tricks to know whether it is a clear coat or anodized, because dont know how. I just scrape it with knife and it wont peeled so i called it anodized.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Lake of the Ozarks MO
    Posts
    3,565

    Default

    You should be able to tell pretty easily by the way the burning heat effects it. If it is cast....it doesnt mean crap anyways.
    Burnt black edges would indicate clear coat to me.
    Post some pics so we can actually see something. PLEASE

    www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
    Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
    MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
    Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

    Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
    Miller 30-A Spoolgun
    Miller WC-115-A
    Miller Spectrum 300
    Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
    SPEEDGLAS 9100XX

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sorong, Indonesia
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Ok, a little strange way.. here's the link to the pict..

    http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...39865363_n.jpg

    dont know it'll work or not.

    Still wait for your opinions and suggestion.

    Thank you,
    Steph.

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