Steph try a pure tungston "green " 3/32 that will give you a wider bead. I use that time to time when needed to give a wide bead. Call ETECH i miami and they have every thing you need to weld anodized aluminum. Paint your welds with there paint it looks really good. Give them a call they are great there.
Results 21 to 28 of 28
Thread: Guide me to bumping technique.
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11-01-2012, 10:13 AM #21
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11-02-2012, 08:16 PM #22
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I used 2% Lant, dont have pure in stock. I'll try it next time. Thanks Gaby.
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11-03-2012, 06:30 AM #23
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Steph i am doing this on my phone and I cant send pic's. I will get on my lap top and try to send you some.
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11-04-2012, 01:41 AM #24
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When Sundown111 explained the process he said not to use a foot pedal but a momentary switch on the gun.
No upslope or downslope, instant maximum heat to move the anodising and form a weld pool, dab the filler and stop then repeat till the weld was done.
I think your material thickness is going to be your problem as you can't get a weld pool forming instantly and at 200 amps you will still be too cold to get it started.
I also think that wheels are one thing you don't want to be using the bump weld technique for.
Bump weld is fine certain structures but in my opinion wheels need to have the anodising mechanically removed around the area to be welded and then weld it from there.
Regards Andrew from Oz.We are tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
OTC AVP300 AC/DC 300 amp hybrid wave Tig.
Kemppi MLS 2300 230amp AC/DC Tig for home with all the bells and whistles.
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11-04-2012, 04:22 PM #25
I agree....poor choice for bumping technique practice. Way too thick. Not gonna get much learned from welding a big casting. Most wheels I have seen here are clear coated over machining/polish. Could easily be mistaken for anodize. Been fixing wheels for many years and don't recall any as anodize. Doesn't mean they aren't out there. Down under may be different.
Instead, get a big sledge and bust off a big chunk
Then practice your cast welding instead
Just my opinion. Peace
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11-06-2012, 01:11 AM #26
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Thanks Andrew and FusionKing, do you guys have any tricks to know whether it is a clear coat or anodized, because dont know how. I just scrape it with knife and it wont peeled so i called it anodized.
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11-06-2012, 07:14 PM #27
You should be able to tell pretty easily by the way the burning heat effects it. If it is cast....it doesnt mean crap anyways.
Burnt black edges would indicate clear coat to me.
Post some pics so we can actually see something. PLEASE
Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"
Miller Bobcat 225 NT
Miller 30-A Spoolgun
Miller WC-115-A
Miller Spectrum 300
Miller Spoolmate 200
Miller 225 Thunderbolt
SPEEDGLAS 9100XX
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11-09-2012, 05:18 PM #28
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Ok, a little strange way.. here's the link to the pict..
http://sphotos-b.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...39865363_n.jpg
dont know it'll work or not.
Still wait for your opinions and suggestion.
Thank you,
Steph.


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