Please help A/C trouble

[Dirtbag Motorsports]

which 180SD is it, a serial# would be handy. cause it works in DC, the SCR's are not a problem.

Thanks for the help

[paulrbrown]

Not ceriated, I said zirconiated.
Not brown/orange, I said brown.

Good info Matrix.....thanks for clarifying.....PR

[paulrbrown]

Thanks matt, I have had this machine for a year now, a farmer had it first and I cleaned it real well and it has worked great on DC, the cups I used were all new and nice and clean and I was able to weld DC in text book form so I think the torch is good to go... I'm going to be able to sleep tonight with the idea that I need zinc blended electrodes and just to take the grounding contamination out of the equation I'm trying to light up with a 1/16 that should just ball up nicely ... No need to put a point on it

trying to upload a pic because everyone likes to see pictures

Zinc??????you need to get your readers fixed......someone has probably said something already, but it sure is not Zinc.........Matrix has good info on this....
PRB......

[paulrbrown]

Ewww .... sour kraut?
That's just sick and wrong, dude.....
Blech ....

;^)

Glad you got your issue sorted out.

OK Matrix, gotta disagree with ya here, Kraut Rules.........looked like you could use a little more clean aluminum, are you wiping down with acetone or xylene or anything after you scotchbright......grease is bad bad bad......and no steel brushes, only stainless brushes........that have only been used on aluminum.......that bead should be shiny and no fly specs.......hope this helps.....oh, the aroma of Kraut.........PRB

[cruizer]

Going to sould silly, but are your work clamp and your tig torch on the correct terminals. And yes it does make a difference

[paulrbrown]

Going to sould silly, but are your work clamp and your tig torch on the correct terminals. And yes it does make a difference

Cruizer, please let us know what the difference is. I had never heard/seen this other than DC.. Thanks for the input.....best wishes, Paul

[cruizer]

Well, the selector is on the front, so its best to put the cables where they need to go, so work to the neg stud with electrode to the pos stud. high freq is also on the pos stud. If you happen to put the cable on wrong AC will be super erratic as will the pickups for the hall.

[paulrbrown]

Well, the selector is on the front, so its best to put the cables where they need to go, so work to the neg stud with electrode to the pos stud. high freq is also on the pos stud. If you happen to put the cable on wrong AC will be super erratic as will the pickups for the hall.

Right on Cruizer, I had forgot about HI Freq. Good info
.....I sometimes like to run 6011 on DC Neg to fill a gap or on thin material, so with Dynasty 200 and Maxstar 140, I swap leads, but other machines I leave alone and switch the knob. Thanks for the fast response,,,,Paul

[Dirtbag Motorsports]

LF067674 is the serial number that I found

[Jorge]

Ewww .... sour kraut?
That's just sick and wrong, dude.....
Blech ....

;^)

Glad you got your issue sorted out.

Matrix... If you ever get to Pittsburgh hit this place
http://primantibros.com/home.html
no kraut coleslaw! And fries and whtever they put on it...

busy day guys Saturday I will do a better prep, weld and photo... I have a dedicated SS brush, I also hit it with cleaner not looking to open up a can of chemistry and reactions ... I need some burn time but was not getting there due to the bad argon, I have miles to go before I will call it great welding... I am a humble novice but I will follow up and I will follow the welding rules thanks for the replies - I think we pretty much pirated this poor guys thread ... Hope he gets his splatter problem fixed