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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    388

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    My thinking on using a scope is to check the phase relationship between the two sets of windings. If on rises while the other falls against it they could theoretically cancel each other out. If they are in phase rising, together they should produce 220v when placed in series. Maybe I'm overthinking this.
    Have you ever tried to run 2 120v things at the same time from the two outlets? That is one from each set of windings. My suggestion would be light bulbs(incandescent if you still got 'em) since they are cheap and easily replaced. If they both light then I think you only have one set of windings working and somehow connected to both sides of your breaker and if it is not too big a pain I would disconnect and separate the commons to verify with a ohm/continuity meter that there is actually two independent sets of windings. That is continuity from hot to common on each set and with the commons disconnected no continuity between the hots. Obviously engine not running. If I have made an error in my thinking someone please correct me.
    Meltedmetal

    And remember your volt meter reads voltage drop between the test points not voltage present.
    Last edited by Meltedmetal; 10-17-2012 at 07:37 AM. Reason: additional thought

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,682

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    True, but a little technical for the OP. He's missing a phase all together

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    49

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NMWelding View Post
    I checked the generator out with my voltage tester by inserting the probe into one of the hot lugs on my 240 volt outlet and the other into the hot lug of the 120 volt outlet and all I get is 120 volts by checking both hot lug on the 240 volt outlet with a hot on either 120 volt outlet.
    At this point you do not have sanity.

    First, what is this "voltage tester" that you have? I hope it is a Volt-Ohm Meter so that you can measure voltage with the unit generator ON and then measure continuity with the generator OFF. If you don't have one, HF has one for 4 bucks. HD and Lowes also have them for about 10 bucks. A digital one with a continuity beeper is very handy and well worth the few extra bucks they charge for this feature.

    Second, determine the hot leads on the 110 and 220 outlets. Measure and write down the voltages. Do this by sticking one probe in the socket and the other attached to the ground terminal located by the 220 outlet. You want to measure all of these against one reference point, in this case the ground terminal.

    Third, stick one probe into the hot lead of one 110 outlet and the other in the other 110 outlet. You should either measure 0 or 220 vac. Do the same across the two hot leads of the 220 outlet. The only valid results are 0 or 220 vac. What you've reported above is not valid across any two hot leads.

    Report your results. Also, you might want to poke around for a clue as to what was reconditioned on this unit. Hang in there!

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,854

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arizona Joe View Post
    At this point you do not have sanity.

    First, what is this "voltage tester" that you have? I hope it is a Volt-Ohm Meter so that you can measure voltage with the unit generator ON and then measure continuity with the generator OFF. If you don't have one, HF has one for 4 bucks. HD and Lowes also have them for about 10 bucks. A digital one with a continuity beeper is very handy and well worth the few extra bucks they charge for this feature.

    Second, determine the hot leads on the 110 and 220 outlets. Measure and write down the voltages. Do this by sticking one probe in the socket and the other attached to the ground terminal located by the 220 outlet. You want to measure all of these against one reference point, in this case the ground terminal.

    Third, stick one probe into the hot lead of one 110 outlet and the other in the other 110 outlet. You should either measure 0 or 220 vac. Do the same across the two hot leads of the 220 outlet. The only valid results are 0 or 220 vac. What you've reported above is not valid across any two hot leads.

    Report your results. Also, you might want to poke around for a clue as to what was reconditioned on this unit. Hang in there!
    he did that already- his last report, which you quoted is correct also- you just have to read it a couple times. at least I did.
    Ed Conley
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  5. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    388

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    True, but a little technical for the OP. He's missing a phase all together
    I think you are right,there must be a phase missing, but short of someone pulling a fast one during the "reconditioning" I can't see how the existing phase managed to get on the other side of the 220v breaker?? I'll admit I am just curious and if he was close by and would allow, I'd go tear it apart just to see what was done.
    Meltedmetal

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    49

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Broccoli1 View Post
    he did that already- his last report, which you quoted is correct also- you just have to read it a couple times. at least I did.
    OK. But, how can he measure the voltage between ANY two hot terminals and get 120? Isn't that what he is saying?

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