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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    14

    Default

    what do you mean by yard the head sorry to sound stupid

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Orange, TX
    Posts
    1,167

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jwd_88 View Post
    ok now the neck on the distributor housing is broke so so just the top of the housing wants to twist and not whole distributor any ideas on what to do to get it out of there
    I'd drop the pan and oil pump and drive it out from the bottom.

    It either has a massive build up of deposits on the housing preventing you from pulling it out of the block bore or it's somehow otherwise stuck to the oil pump drive shaft. If either is the case, you could pull the head and still not get it out and have to pull the pan anyhow. A pan gasket set is cheaper than a head gasket.
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  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,474

    Default

    Just thinkin. that there is still oil in the engine top end. and the unit is likely jammed in the head. You could try punching it from the bottom, but if you take the head off in all likelyhood the distributor will pop out with it. Yes you'll need a head gasket, however you can also clean goop off the top of the pistons and have a look see at the valves as well.

    Yarding the head, just means taking the head off.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    14

    Default

    alright guys thank you both very much for the advice im going to jump right into it tomorrow morning and one way or another ill get it out i did how ever just drop the oil pan and did the rear main and replaced the pan gasket due to it leaking then i have trouble getting the oil pump lined back up so i was rotating the distributor to line it up then when i got it all back together and went fire it up it turned over but wouldnt start the it would put off a big back fire so i told the old timer in my union and he said it sound like my distributor was 180 out that my valves were close when they need to be open to fire then they would open and id get that big back fire thats when i tried put the distributor and it wouldnt come out then i broke the housing that when i turned the pros u guys so thanks for the help

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Four Flags city
    Posts
    298

    Default

    While you are at the parts store ask if they have a 5 gallon pail of punctuation....one long running sentence is hard to read.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,474

    Default

    You have one big azzz, run on sentense there! Anyhow, why would you remove the oil pump to do a gasket, seal change, makes no sence.

    The rear seal is a bit of a B--itch, even though I've done a thousand of them, hope you did it correctly!

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Corunna Ont, Canada
    Posts
    449

    Default Here's one for ya.......

    Ok I got a buddy that has a 300D with the kubota engine, he tells me that he had the rack put back to factory spot, he complains the it still throws snot balls(custom arc turned right down) off on 7018, he want to know if there was a way to set it up to weld as nice as a old red face?

    I have a load bank here to run it on.

    What do you suggest to do with this machine?

    Thanks Jeff your the MAN

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  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    south west Michigan
    Posts
    81

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cruizer View Post
    Is it wired for single phase? IE if you open it up, it should be from left to right on the on/off switch black, white, red where black and white are the single phase connections. Often the white and the red are reversed. This leads to mod failure.
    Would this hold true for a 200dx that's oh ... prolly... at least 4 years old anyway? I'd hate to let the smoke outta mine.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,474

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Railmen View Post
    Ok I got a buddy that has a 300D with the kubota engine, he tells me that he had the rack put back to factory spot, he complains the it still throws snot balls(custom arc turned right down) off on 7018, he want to know if there was a way to set it up to weld as nice as a old red face?

    I have a load bank here to run it on.

    What do you suggest to do with this machine?

    Thanks Jeff your the MAN

    Railmen
    OK, there is a problem with retards, running out of fuel with the Kubota lineup, they open up the injector pump air bleed and NEVER close it, this is especially true with the Red-D-Arc versions. So the injectors themselves can never pressure up with this air bleed wide open, so no torque and output is severly screwed. Best to close it!.

    Second problem, while its best to line up the rack and housing dots, AND NOT use further retarted 300 amp brushes. It is ok, to move the rack 1/16" one way or the other to adjust the arc to the operators likeling. Any more than 1/16 of an inch and your asking for a generator overhaul.

    Third problem is the Failed control bridge and low open circuit voltage adjusted via the engine rpm (output frequency), Again too high, or too low and the machine is out of tolerance. We recommend no more than 61hz. turning the engine higher, won't help the economy nor the end weld.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,474

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by welderboyjk View Post
    Would this hold true for a 200dx that's oh ... prolly... at least 4 years old anyway? I'd hate to let the smoke outta mine.

    Yes and preventative maintenance also inludes the tightening of the brass locks on the output studs. Recomend using red locktite on the threads. This is another BIG problem area which if left alone will end up causing damage to the inverter and memory boards

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