OK - class 2 last night - used the stick all night - was struggling sparking it up for a while with the rod fusing to the scrap but then got a great tip from a guy another classmate - tap it harder - worked like a charm for the remaining 30 min I was practicing. Like here - great advice.
Finally a question - rod code definitions - I had an easier time using a 7018 than the 6010 honestly - that one didn't fuse to the plate for me as often as the 6010 did. The numbers -can you direct me to a chart/break down of the 4 digit codes? Also - to refresh my memory from instruction: when using stick - too much spark - too hot, turn down the machine a little? sticking - turn up the machine a little - (too cold?)
Another - can you tell me your techniques for when you are on a fresh rod - that is at it's greatest length I was all over the place - as the rod burned I could use my left wrist/hand to balance my right holding the stinger...is it just control free holding the stinger that comes with practice/experience or are there any cheater tips you can give me?
p.s. I sweated straight through my welding jacket with the shop temp, humidity and heat...then washed out small metal beads from my hair later last night - would that be classified as 'home-work' (rimshot) - sorry.....
Results 1 to 7 of 7
09-19-2012, 01:22 PM #1Senior Member
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- May 2012
09-19-2012, 02:30 PM #2Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
Yep, a partially used 7018 usually needs a decent smack to break off the slag cap on the end of the rod, just don't hit it so hard that you remove the flux.
If your shooting little molten balls of steel all over the shop you're probably too hot. A sticking rod does not always mean your too cold but it does mean you need more practice.
Controlling a new rod is easy, you just need more practice.
On critical welds,I've gotten in the bad habit of holding the rod with my left hand till it burns down to a more controllable length. This has ruined several left gloves, calloused my left fingers and given me a pretty good shock when the gloves were wet (another bad idea). Practice the correct way so you don't get in that habit!
Did I mention more practice?
09-19-2012, 02:43 PM #3
Srike your arc like a match rather than tapping it
09-19-2012, 05:46 PM #4
Use a file on slagged over 7018 rods, before restarting. Keep your arc length and rod angle constent throughout the whole rod. Dry run your travel, without a rod in stinger, before you run your weld. I use my left hand, propped on my right, to steady my stinger and bend my stinger side wrist to keep the same angle.
09-19-2012, 06:12 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
09-19-2012, 07:09 PM #6
7018 feels easier to control becuase of the powder metal and it doesnt dig like cellulose rod aka 6010 but it is way easier to have slag inclusion especially on vert up get real good with 6010 and 7018 will be way easier when you take xray weld test. Personaly i like 6010 sparks and all but almost all struct is 7018 or dual if you like pipe the 6010 and 6010 with 7018 is bread and butter for stick. It takes time learn to read puddle and it wont matter what you run you be able to control it. Good luck and practice truly does give birth to perfectionThe whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, and wiser people so full of doubts
09-19-2012, 07:43 PM #7
First 2 numbers are the minimum tensile strength of a good weld with that rod. 7018 would be 70,000 psi.
3rd number is welding position, 1=all positions
2=horizontal and flat, 3=flat only, 4= all positions except vertical down.
4th number is welding current 0-DCRP, 1-AC and DCRP, 2-AC and DCSP, 3-AC and DC,
4-AC and DC, 5-DCRP, 6-AC and DCRP, 8- AC and DCRP
DCRP- electrode positive
DCSP- electrode negative
Practice, practice, practice, and practice. The steady hand will come.