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  1. #1
    turbo38t Guest

    Default Cast iron repair on fork lift tansmission?

    Ok, here goes. I am servicing an IR VR-1044 and there is a crack in the bottom radius of the cast iron transfer case attached to the bottom of the transmission. It is the case where the two driveshafts meet. Anyways, they crack is more of an oil leak than a structural problem according to the powers that be. Basically I have a 6" crack running horizontally in the radius where the front vertical side meets the horizontal bottom side. I've done quite a few cast iron repairs and to be honest I usually prefer stainless rod over nickel rod unless it needs to be machined. I also normally am able to properly heat and cool the pieces. This one is different. First off, the case is on the machine so I'm out of position(not a big deal), second is the tranny had ATF in it (quite flammable), thirdly I can not remover it(refer to first problem) and lastly I DON'T WANT THIS THING TO LEAK. The tranny is drained and the rear bearing/yoke are out so the case is vented but I can't get in enough to clean it properly. What would you guys do? My thought is to use stainless or like a nickel 99 and do short 1" beads in a veed out crack. Low amps and short weld time. Let each cool a couple minutes in between with the help of a torch about 6-8 inches away. Dave PS- Thx in advance for any input.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    chilliwack BC
    Posts
    38

    Default Cast iron repair on fork lift tansmission?

    Only thing I can add is peen between welding

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    seaford de
    Posts
    406

    Default reply to cast trans repair

    The first thing i would do is clean off all oils and fluids both inside and out the best u can. If you heat the cast iron with any contaminants on it then it may absorb it and make the cast unweldable. I have used a tig torch with 316 stainless filler on (ACHF)...yes ACHF on transfer cases and transmissions before and it worked out pretty good. U may also wana drill a few expansion holes before u do any pre heating or welding so it doesnt crack further. The main thing is to have it clean before u apply any heat.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,919

    Cool

    If it was mine i would vee if i could, clean and preheat and burn out as much oil as i could. I would use a good cast iron rod (just my preference over SS) and weld small welds peening as i go. If you get cracks or bubbles grind out and reweld. The oil is going to be a problem as its soaked deep in the crack. Just my thoughts...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Oswego IL
    Posts
    665

    Default Dont weld it>>>dont it will crack....

    The crack likely came form vibration, if you weld it, it will crack very soon. I would bet the drivetrain has a balance issue. A bettar repair would be the lock and stich method. Basically it uses set screws tapped into each other, it works very well and will last, if you weld it, I give it a week before it cracks again. Google lock and stich. I have repaired holes in blocks and it has not failed yet.
    Kevin
    XMT 304
    Miller Spectrum 625
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    S22a
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    Ford f450 Maintainer Srv Truck

  6. #6

    Default pin it.

    If you are able to drill the crack, use the lock and stitch procedure. Works wonders on cast iron and aluminum.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    306

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by abprt View Post
    If you are able to drill the crack, use the lock and stitch procedure. Works wonders on cast iron and aluminum.
    ^
    This

    If you weld on a constrained cast iron part it will crack.
    Miller syncrowave 200 runner with coolmate 4
    and wp2025 weldcraft torch
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    seaford de
    Posts
    406

    Default if ya cant weld DONT WELD IT

    i have welded many transmissions, transfer cases, blocks, rears, boiler tanks... etc. With that method or with utp 55 or 99 rods. I have jus had better luck with 308.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,730

    Default

    I've welded alot of cast over the years and I agree with Ametalmaster.

    I cant comment on the lockstitch method because I have never used it.

    One would hope that a bolt losened up causing the crack and thats why it broke so you can tighten the bolt up and tig weld it.

    Use short welds 1/4" long peen and weld and keep repeating untill your done.

  10. #10
    turbo38t Guest

    Default

    Well guys, the repair is done. I ended up putting the front of the machine up on 12? blocks to pool the last little bit of oil away from the crack. I then cleaned everything thoroughly and veed out the crack. I drilled the ends of it with a 3/32 bit and also drilled 2 holes along the length. I then pre heated to around 275-300(any hotter would have caused the ATF to flame up). I stirched about an inch at a time and immediately peaned it and jumped to a different spot and repeat. I had one small pinhole to fill and that was it. I post heated it a bit and then covered it with a blanket and let it cool. No pinging, no cracks. I used Ni99 for the whole procedure. I reassembled and did a test run in 3rd gear over lots of rough stuff and no leaks so as of now it's good. Thx for the help guys. Dave

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