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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    22

    Default Stick Welding C purlin and 14 gauge tubing

    I work as a Mig welder welding bumpers up all day. I have lots of tig welding experience from my previous job. Everything I know about stick welding though is what I've taught myself and learned off the internet. I've recently purchased a Hobart 250 generator welder and got a deal I could'nt refuse on a Maxstar 150. Here recently I've gotten a few small side jobs doing carports and patios and such. Most of them i've built has been with 14 gauge 2x4 rectangular tubing, 14 ga 4x4 tube, and 4" C purlin for runners. The problem I have is when I'm attaching the 2x4 to the 4x4 poles on the sides, today I done it with 3/32 6011's running downhill with my maxstar on 60 amps, I keep getting too hot and burning through the tube, I have to stop and go a lot to get it all filled in. I've also tried it with 1/8" 6011's at 90 amps and 3/32 7018s going uphill at about 90 amps. I'm good with my angles and always get my gaps tight. I just want to know what the best way to stick weld this thin stuff is. I've never had nothing fail just wish I could make it look better. Any thoughts and opinions is very appreciated thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,383

    Default

    I use the 1/8 6011 at 85 or so. The trick is to really understand how the electrode operates, it may take a lesson. Smaller rods are too fussy as to arc length and on occasion you can run the 7018 downhill on thin material.Here is an exaggerated version with the 11, notice the different spacing of the whips, long whip and tight arc on the pause.

    This is far from a perfect pic, just the principle, you can see how far apart the strokes are at the top, can do this downhill also. Maybe some has better examples.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Sberry; 09-03-2012 at 07:44 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    215

    Default

    Can't go wrong with 1/8 6010 to fill gaps plus run the first pass followed by 7018 3/32 or 1/8 to finish welding out with I should know this is what I built this weekend

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Thanks for the pic and the info. Think I just need to get some of my scrap laying around and get in the shop and practice on it, just don't believe I've done enough of it yet to be really good at it. Also I have lots of trouble stick welding straight overhead and tips or pointers on that?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,383

    Default

    This is overhead open butt no bevel 6011, can be done with 10 too but again back to the same principle. The Dr is probably pretty fine at it, I can go long stretches without welding these types of things or its a rod or 2 deal. Its put a spot, let it cool, put another spot. It can be fast but its basically whats happening.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,383

    Default

    This project was similar, Miller Maxstar on 120v 1/8 6011. We were not even real fussy about fits, an advantage of 1/8 vs 3/32 with this electrode is two fold, fist arc length is not as critical and second a larger wire bridges gaps easier and is also a lot faster.

    Some of it was chop saw cut, the smaltypicalls, a few pieces torch cut on the job and maybe a zing with grinderdidn'tnt even clean paint from building, took my helper and myself less than half a day including digging old well pipe out of the scrap and making a couple of brackets tattachch to column.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Alright thanks for all the help. It's been a 100 degrees the last 2 days here in Texas. As soon as it gets cool, I'm gonna get in the shop and work at it. I gotta get it to looking better the customers are always satisfied with my work but I ain't ever really satisfied with the way my welds looks even if I know they'll hold.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    greenfield new hampshire
    Posts
    876

    Default

    i have about 25 lbs left from my box of 6011, when its gone, that will be the last 6011 rod i ever buy, 6010 is where it is at, try 6010x3/32 with the whip technique, you will finish up that project in no time. i always run a smaller rod HOT than a bigger rod COLD. BETTER FUSION

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Milan Michigan
    Posts
    1,697

    Default

    I've been doing this stuff for 29 years, 6011 is best choice if using rod, go down hill, if 3/32 doesnt work then step down to 1/8".

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    greenfield new hampshire
    Posts
    876

    Default

    Hey portable welder, i am going to 6010 because the 3/32 6011 has been giving me grief for quite a while, ya burn it down about 1/2 of the way and then it will run real crappy for the last half, i am using hobart rod, but the larger rod is fine, just the 3/32 does this, any comments, i have posted this before, no one else seems to have run across this issue. Kevin

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