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  1. #1

    Default Just bought a syncrowave 300

    I just got a syncrowave 300 from a public surplus auction for $177, and after tax, and buyer's premium, it came to $207. The auction listing stated that the high frequency didn't work, so I bought it with the intention of it being a $200, 300 amp stick welder. Of course, I received it, and it was just the power supply, with no torch, pedal, or leads. I first took the covers off, and inspected everything, then blew it out with compressed air, and made sure it was wired for 460v. I hooked up a set of 4 guage leads, and it welds 7018 perfectly.

    I don't have much experience with tig, so I don't know how to properly test the high frequency, plus I don't have a torch. When I checked the contacts, they were set at .014", and .015", when they are supposed to be .008". When I set the hf to constant, there is a nice arc between the contacts, so I assume it is working, and I just need to adjust the gap.

    I am considering a weldcraft 26v torch, because I don't have the money for a radiator, and the water where I will be using it is high in calcium. I am thinking about this torch on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/220914616438...84.m1423.l2649


    I am also in the market for a 5 pin pedal, rfcs-5, or rfcs-23

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,145

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by redsautorehab View Post
    I just got a syncrowave 300 from a public surplus auction for $177, and after tax, and buyer's premium, it came to $207. The auction listing stated that the high frequency didn't work, so I bought it with the intention of it being a $200, 300 amp stick welder. Of course, I received it, and it was just the power supply, with no torch, pedal, or leads. I first took the covers off, and inspected everything, then blew it out with compressed air, and made sure it was wired for 460v. I hooked up a set of 4 guage leads, and it welds 7018 perfectly.

    I don't have much experience with tig, so I don't know how to properly test the high frequency, plus I don't have a torch. When I checked the contacts, they were set at .014", and .015", when they are supposed to be .008". When I set the hf to constant, there is a nice arc between the contacts, so I assume it is working, and I just need to adjust the gap.

    I am considering a weldcraft 26v torch, because I don't have the money for a radiator, and the water where I will be using it is high in calcium. I am thinking about this torch on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/220914616438...84.m1423.l2649


    I am also in the market for a 5 pin pedal, rfcs-5, or rfcs-23
    sounds like you have already addressed the HF situation by adjusting the spark gaps...

    you may have already downloaded the manual... but if not.. just plug in your serial number here to get the proper version..

    http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php
    .

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  3. #3

    Default

    I did download the generic manual. If I enter the serial number, it comes back with no results. I did find out that it is a 1979 model, and the serial is: HK223042

    Someone added a switch, and wrote smaw above the switch, and gtaw below. The switch wiring inside looks factory though. There's pictures of it at the auction listing here: http://www.publicsurplus.com/sms/auc...iew?auc=749721

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by redsautorehab View Post
    Someone added a switch, and wrote smaw above the switch, and gtaw below.
    Sounds like something may have gone bad on the polarity switch. Normally GTAW (TIG) is DC electrode-negative (or AC if on aluminum) and SMAW (stick) is DC electrode positive...

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Helios View Post
    Sounds like something may have gone bad on the polarity switch. Normally GTAW (TIG) is DC electrode-negative (or AC if on aluminum) and SMAW (stick) is DC electrode positive...

    On the syncrowave 300, the polarity is through a slide type switch, which has what appears to be 2 or 4 gauge cable. The toggle switch that was added connects to the original 14 gauge wires. I will pull the cover again, and study the diagram to see if I can make sense of this added switch.

    Still looking for a pedal, if anybody has one for sale, or knows someone that does.

  6. #6

    Default

    This added switch is baffling me. It is closed in the smaw position, one wire is added to ckt #109 at the amperage potentiometer, and the other is labeled #122, but does not attach to ckt #122. The #122 on this switch goes to pin #16 on the main ckt board, which is normally empty. When I removed the ckt board, it has had a wire soldered to the #16 position, and run to the other side of the board, where a small ckt board has been bolted down with the connector nuts. This small board has a number on the back of: "nspr 5253", also it has an ic chip #ca307e, which is the same as all the ones on the main board, and it has 6 resistors, and a diode. It has 4 other wires soldered to the main board, which are, output of d29, input of d1, and both sides of d30.

    This board does not match any of the addons shown in the manual, and I cannot figure out what it's purpose may be.

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