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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    8

    Default promblems welding 3/4x2 1/4 aluminum

    i have a 10 year old sychrowave 350. i am having some major issues with cracking and my tungsten keeps getting incinerated. i have use pure and Ceriated, both eventually grenade into the weld because of the heat.

    i am using 100% argon with 1/8" tungsten. i have balled the tip, pointed it and used a pointed electrode with a flat end. my flow of argon is 30 cfm and i have a #6 cone.

    i ran it up to 350amps

    i normally use a dynasty 200 but something tells me this job is too tall and order.

    any help will be greatly appreciated.




    chris
    Last edited by point4five; 08-07-2012 at 08:39 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    1,158

    Default

    Well I can tell you that 30 cfh is too much for a #6 cup. 15 to 18 cfh would be more like it. I would try a #8 cup and some 22 to 25cfh.

    That and you may need to preheat or add some helium to your gas mix.
    Nothing welded, Nothing gained

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    northern NJ
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    Default

    How big of a pc. are you welding? You say 3/4 x 2.25 but are you welding something to it, butt welding it, welding it to something larger? What torch do you have? You may need a bigger one. You do need a bigger tungsten. Do not grind it to a flatted point. Pre-heat maybe, depends on the overall size. Need more facts. Pics would help.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Have you tried welding Aluminum with DC straight helium. It very easy to weld thick aluminum in this process. You need one tank of welding grade helium or better, Ultra Pure is the best (99.999% pure helium). Use welding rod ER4043 using an DC amp range of 200 -275. You cant use ER5356 rod it will crack most of the time. Sharpen your tungsten to a blunt taper point. It is harder to start the arc using straight helium so you might have to scratch start it the arc. Travel speed are very fast and you dont need to pre-heat the aluminum like AC welding of thick plate. This takes a little practice adding rod. You need to move in and out fast or the rod will want to blob up on you and you need keep it the shielding gas or the rod will be contaiminated. The weld will most likly have a black film on it edges just wire brush the weld to reveal your pretty weld. I have been welding thick aluminum this way since this mid 70 this way. The bad part of this is that there is a world wide shortage of helium now so finding helium might be very hard.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I have a standard weldcraft water cooled torch.

    They are all T joints with the 2.25" side being the fillet weld. And the only way to clamp it is in the vertical position.

    I did some preheating this morning and i was able to get it to puddle easyier but the welds are still oxidized and cracking. Im running it at about 275 amps because that seems to be as much as my tungsten can take.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Another note: this just needs to be stuck together. It is not taking a big load and the is plenty of reinforcing factors

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Liberty, Mo.
    Posts
    64

    Default

    Clean the **** out of it. If there is any oxide film on the Aluminum, it will cause issues like spitting of the electrode and it will make it harder for the arc to penetrate. I don't know much about the 350's but you will want to set your AC balance for max penetration as opposed to balanced/ max cleaning, if that is an option. Use the softer rod 4043 as well. Like others have said, preheat with torch and then focus the electrode/ arc onto the thicker or lower sections and let the heat rise and preheat the rest of the area. I don't ball electrodes either. If it balls on it's own fine but I like to focus the arc where I want it to at first especially when tack welding. Good Luck!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Los Angeles
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    1,158

    Default

    Cracking and oxidizing sounds to me like bad gas, gas delivery problem, or bad alum.

    Are you using a gas lense that may be contaminated?

    Do you know what alloy you are welding?
    Nothing welded, Nothing gained

    Miller Dynasty700DX
    3 ea. Miller Dynasty350DX
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    Hypertherm 800
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    Haberle 18" Cold Saw
    Doringer 14" Cold Saw
    6 foot x 12 foot Mojave granite

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Another note: this just needs to be stuck together. It is not taking a big load and the is plenty of reinforcing factors

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    8

    Default

    6061 with 5356 filler

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