The guys have given some excellent advice... but this additional may help too...
Here is a short video that goes over settings for aluminum on the Dynasty... it is a different animal than a Transformer/Squarewave machine... This example has some similarities to your situation..
like I said, it is short and you may find it useful..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohuoW...feature=relmfu
and another one...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=OUr2hMIrDfo
Results 11 to 14 of 14
Thread: Tig Welding Aluminum Norms
-
07-31-2012, 05:28 PM #11
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2003
- Posts
- 2,019
Last edited by H80N; 07-31-2012 at 05:45 PM.
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know............................. (Old Estonian Saying)
-
08-01-2012, 02:50 PM #12
Yes, I use carbide burrs in a die grinder, Keep in mind its not that I never use a grinder. On heavy things like relining the bed of a gravel train when I'm using my push pull aluminum mig Yes I mainly use a grinder but on more delicate things that are going to be tig welded like a air conditioner line I try to stick with a wire wheel only.
-
08-01-2012, 06:20 PM #13
Tig Welding Aluminum Norms
Cool thanks , I'll try that
Kevin
-
08-09-2012, 07:49 AM #14
Let us know how it went with the changes you made and what worked. When it gets to the melting point to add filler the puddle will get shiny. I sometimes find the welding rods need to be cleaned with acetone as well when I handle them with gloves that I also use for other jobs. If your new to welding Aluminum you may find yourself like a lot of people who have a problem getting enough or too much heat. If you get into the habit of "lead" footing the pedal you may find it easier to "bump" weld the aluminum. You "bump" by laying each bead one puddle at a time. That's how a lot of them folks get that stacking dimes look without overheating the base or weld.



Reply With Quote









