My existing shop is 38' x 40' with a 16' ceiling and I just did an addition that is 40' x 80' with a 18' ceiling, The existing shop has a 150 btu hanging forced air furnace.
I'm wanting to do a radiant tube heater in the new shop and was thinking it would be best if I put it over top of my welding table that is 22' long so it heats the table and the table can hold the heat.
My problem is that the table is on the opposite end of the building approximately 72' away.
My question is do I use one big heater or will I be better served with 2 smaller ones.
Or would I be better off not worrying about heating the tables and run one long one the length of the building.
Your input will be appreciated.
Results 1 to 10 of 19
Thread: New welding shop tube heater
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07-19-2012, 06:30 AM #1
New welding shop tube heater
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07-19-2012, 07:25 AM #2
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Personally I would like 2 units. I have one over my bench and it makes it feel nice and rosy. With 2 there is twice as much to go wrong but also not out of luck should a problem arise with one. The one I have was straight, I put 90 in it and turn it. I really rarely use the thing as I mainly heat with wood but it is a backup. Back in the day I was doing a fair amount of design/proto work, would come in shop at 10 at night, kick it up over the benches for half an hour to get rolling, made it real comfy.
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07-19-2012, 09:42 AM #3
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Should have asked first...
...in-floor heat is the BEST.
MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
Just For Home Projects.
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07-19-2012, 12:07 PM #4
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I'm not sure about the claim of in-floor heat being the best...especially on a retrofit like this!
I went with the double heater set-up. Each unit faces the opposite direction to the other in order to have the heat output equalize over the entire shop. On the combustion side of the heater the heat output is greater. By the time the tube nears the far wall and is vented to the exterior you can place your hand on the tube and not notice much, if any, variation from room temperature...that in itself is a good indicator of their high efficiency. Both are on seperate thermostats, so its easy to save a bit of energy if you only need one side of the shop warm and toasty.
Living up here in Wyoming with cold weather, the heating bills are almost always less than the electric bills up at the shop with an R40 ceiling insulation factor and the thermostats left around 40-45 degrees unless the shop needs brought up to temperature. When that happens, I just crank the thermostats for 10-15 minutes and reset to 40-45 afterwards and the heat stays comfortable longer than I care to work at any given time.Miller 251...sold the spoolgun to DiverBill.
Miller DialArc 250
Lincoln PrecisionTig 275
Hypertherm 900 plasma cutter
Bridgeport "J" head mill...tooled up
Jet 14 X 40 lathe...ditto
South Bend 9" lathe...yeah, got the change gears too
Logan 7" shaper
Ellis 3000 band saw
Hossfeld bender w/shopbuilt hyd.
Victor Journeyman torch and gauges
3 Gerstner boxes of mostly Starrett tools
Lots of dust bunnies
Too small of a shop at 40 X 59.
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07-19-2012, 02:03 PM #5
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07-19-2012, 04:32 PM #6
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Sure, probably is a NEW floor...which makes it a R-E-T-R-O-F-I-T if it is already in place. If it isn't, the original poster can add in-floor heat in the new section and keep his old amazingly inefficient hanging forced air furnace in the old section OR swap out that old forced air furnace for a high efficiency radiant tube ceiling heater in that or both sections as he sees fit. I'm just going with what the original poster mentioned about his welding table being located 72' away in the opposite corner when the original building was stated as being 38' X 40'.
Miller 251...sold the spoolgun to DiverBill.
Miller DialArc 250
Lincoln PrecisionTig 275
Hypertherm 900 plasma cutter
Bridgeport "J" head mill...tooled up
Jet 14 X 40 lathe...ditto
South Bend 9" lathe...yeah, got the change gears too
Logan 7" shaper
Ellis 3000 band saw
Hossfeld bender w/shopbuilt hyd.
Victor Journeyman torch and gauges
3 Gerstner boxes of mostly Starrett tools
Lots of dust bunnies
Too small of a shop at 40 X 59.
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07-20-2012, 09:33 AM #7
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A new floor doesn't = RETROFIT.
But now that his is up and he is just figuring out the heat it IS too late.
That is why I said in MY OP that he should have come here first...my GOD, take it easy old timer...you are (you're) likely to pop a bolt.MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
Just For Home Projects.
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07-20-2012, 10:09 AM #8
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You needn't worry about this old timer popping a bolt, but thanks for caring enough about my health to comment. I'm enjoying the humor. I seem to remember, even with an old timer's memory, that the OP was asking about ceiling radiant heat for a new addition...wait a second, old/new addition with an old/new floor. Mentioning in-floor heat as a missed option appeared to make as little sense then as it does now.
Miller 251...sold the spoolgun to DiverBill.
Miller DialArc 250
Lincoln PrecisionTig 275
Hypertherm 900 plasma cutter
Bridgeport "J" head mill...tooled up
Jet 14 X 40 lathe...ditto
South Bend 9" lathe...yeah, got the change gears too
Logan 7" shaper
Ellis 3000 band saw
Hossfeld bender w/shopbuilt hyd.
Victor Journeyman torch and gauges
3 Gerstner boxes of mostly Starrett tools
Lots of dust bunnies
Too small of a shop at 40 X 59.
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07-20-2012, 10:58 AM #9
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- Apr 2011
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Yep...But might help the next guy.
MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
Just For Home Projects.
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07-20-2012, 03:31 PM #10
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There is nothing wrong with radiant heat, going in floor would add a lot of extra cost and a whole new system, radiant tube is simple, hook gas lines and vents in and out, as was mentioned it gives off more heat near the burner I believe. I like it, quick to warm over work areas.



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