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Thread: 6010

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    asheville n.c.
    Posts
    618

    Default

    Im also gonna try it straight polarity welding decking

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    215

    Default 6010

    Switching the polarity minimizes the penetration adjust your arc force to zero and I mean hot start. And it is perfect for welding on thin gauge steel I have repaired many things with it that way. Or just get some 6010 3/32 it is tiny and at 40 amps you can practically weld anything small 1/16 gauge steel no problem

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    greenfield new hampshire
    Posts
    858

    Default

    since we are talking about 6010, may I ask a question , i always stock 6011 and 7018, in my shop for the bread and butter jobs, i have had a problem running 6011x3/32", hobarts product, i run it on dc plus, when it gets used about 1/2 of the way, it welds awful, for the last 5" of rod left, it runs cold, the flux changes color, it sticks, where as the same rod in the larger sizes burns real nice right down to the stub, ac helps, but that is not the answer, my question is does 3/32" 6010 using dc plus run good all the way through the whole length of the rod. thanks boys. kevin

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    215

    Default 6010

    Yes it burns great I actually burn 6010 all the way down till it starts to burn Excalibur aka my stinger my 6010 stubs are usually two inches. .... It actually burns longer than any other rod I have used it burns nothing like 7018 ...... You know the orange glow on the last five inches.... That is if your running it correctly but that's for another thread .......

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    215

    Default 6010

    What do you use 3/32 6010 on cause unless your making art or back welding pipe or patching conex's or roofing I don't see much use for it ... Now 1/8 is my go to rod for lots of applications

  6. #16

    Default

    ...Isn't that what you use for a root pass on pipe? I'm pretty sure it is. Why don't they make sure people can use it if it's the most important part of welding pipe together?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Posts
    215

    Default 6010

    It is allowed on most pipe procedures yes for the root pass and in some cases you are asked to completely weld out the pipe using it. Now structurally it is frowned upon because engineers Think its to brittle and will crack out under vibration and stress. 801o has replaced it but 8010 is the biggest piece o ****e rod ever invented go figure ???? That's why I say only listen to an engineer if your on a train

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    asheville n.c.
    Posts
    618

    Default

    pipe nurse exactly what my intention is. i dont want a lot of penetration as i dont wish to cot the joists in half. yet at the same time i want speed and lots of it. i had piece of decking and i tried it about 180 amps straight polarity and it seemed to do the job. if i get thinner decking ill cool it off some say 150 amps. but im gonna use it to fill gaps etc on jobs and cover with lo/hy, unless i can get my 232 at it

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,364

    Default

    As I may have mentioned, when I bought my maxs I bought some tiny rods thinking i might find smoothing to use them on but its really a waste for me to carry them around, I never seem to think to change the polarity, a job I do might have some thin work but not building continuous sheet metal with sticks. So,,, I don't bother reaching for anything other than what i would normally use.

    1/8 10 or 11. It deposits more wire, I turn it down 5 amps or so if I got a lot to do, usually zot some tacks on, start beads in gaps and cracks and work toward tight steel with longer beads, pass over the tacks or blend in to them to clean up any mess, I can do it really fast so if a guwasn'tnt paying attn hwouldn'tnt realize I added in metal and little heat sinks where burn thru was going to give a problem.
    Not only does 1/8 put out more wire but the electrode is often wider than the gap in the sheet, when you get a gap larger than the rod it plain judoesn'tsnt fill it, you got to change gears and gets more difficultIncreasesces tdiligencence, technique and yes those little rods seem to get hotter, you are trying to make longer weld with smaller rod, on sheet a 1/8 goes a long way and allows for some stop time.

    The only 3/32 rod I do use is 7018, use it for a couple of reasons. Most of our work is lightover weldedelded anyway, the finish can be great if needed, easy out of position in difficult areas. A can goes a long ways, a lot of rods in there. Now even more useful with the advent of the inverter that runs from 120V.

    With the 3/32 gives a guy a little time, especially when I am not a daily driver anymore, my brain forgets that and on some azzhole spot, thin with rusted hole, etc a guy stands a chance to drag or stringer up, someplace where its difficult to see or occasional mirror even.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,861

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by 7018fiend View Post
    ...Isn't that what you use for a root pass on pipe? I'm pretty sure it is. Why don't they make sure people can use it if it's the most important part of welding pipe together?
    Some places it is. Marathon was all 7018 root and cover or TIG with 70S-3 wire...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

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