Stick Electrode Smackdown

[kevin]

any one testing 1 rod against another will use the proper heat range for optimum results for that particular rod, 1 size fits all will not work here
7018x1/8" @ 125 amps for flat is right on
6011 will be too hot
7014 will be cold
6013 will be hot
using the same amperage will not give accurate results
my 2 cents worth

[go2building]

any one testing 1 rod against another will use the proper heat range for optimum results for that particular rod, 1 size fits all will not work here
7018x1/8" @ 125 amps for flat is right on
6011 will be too hot
7014 will be cold
6013 will be hot
using the same amperage will not give accurate results
my 2 cents worth

Ok so why would OP run 7018 at 140A and 7014 at 125A when amperage ranges for both are practically the same. Would be fare if He ran these two at the same amps
Kevin

[ChuckE2009]

Jeeeze, thats what I was thinking!! Thanks you guys!! Glad some people agree with me, people on WW and on the video itself all asked why I used different amperages, I always thought different rods used different amperages. Sometimes you get lucky tho and have exceptions, like 3/32 7018 and 1/8" 6010 run about the same. Im thinking of doing a part two all at the same amperage just because people seem to want to see it, but idk...

My main concern would be the undercut. When I went to get the 7014 and the 6013 set up, I'd crank up the welder in increments until I got undercut, and then backed it down until that went away... Atleast, thats how I usually set myself up...

[Old Skool]

Every rod based on type and size has a given parameter, low amperage to high amperage. Your amperage settings should be set within those parameters for whatever rod you're using based on base metal thickness, type of joint, and weld position. Using 1/8th" 7018 as an example to state 1/8" 7018 is "flat on at 125 amps" is wrong when the high end of most brands is in the 150 amp range and the low end as low as 90 amps.

[Bistineau]

That statement, by itself, shows your ignorance. Just cruise thru the Lincoln website, stopping at every PDF file for each type of rod, and take notes, you will soon see how truely stupid that thought really is.

There are several here that agree with what I said on this and I haven't posted on this link. http://weldingweb.com.php?t=126451 Not all these people think it's a stupid question. This is the same test and post on a differant site.

[kevin]

ah, let me see, 1 divided by 8 is .125 sound familiar, a good starting point, any one who took my advice as a golden rule has no clue as to how to weld, i gave a simple comparison of different rods, each machine is different so it is impossible to nail down an amperage in print, and as why did the op use 140a for 7018 and 125a for 7014, i have no fxxx,n clue he got it back wards, 7014 is leaning towards the fast fill group

[Cornerstone]

I like your approach and the vid, but soon became tired watching you swing the sledge. But keep up the good work. Bob.

[2tay530]

jeez when they say someones welds are like a signature they mean it. When i saw the two beads joining in the middle i was thinking Jeez i only kow of one person who welds like that. lol

As far as the test goes i think that he was perfectly correct about using diferent amperages for the different rods. Who among us would not change there parameters when going from a 1/8" 6011 to a 1/8" 7018? I see no validity in the argument of running them all at the same amperage because it's highly impractical and more or less just an ignorant practice to do so. if he were to weld everything at say 110 amps then two of the rods would be high in their parameter range while one would be at its lowest end and one would be beneath the lowest end of its range. this test one done on very thick plate which apears to be atleast 1/4" which is thicker than i think most men would weld with a single pass on a t-joint especialy without any bevel. i think it would be fair if all rods were burnt at the equivalent seting in their parameter range. (ex.- all at their max or all at their exact median amperage for that rods parameters) I think for a real world test that any Joe Blow can understand that the sledge hamer method is adequate. I personaly am not concerned with the exact PSI each weld will fail at and i dont think there was any noticible fatigue in the test except maybe int the 33+ strikes on the 7018 but regadless it still took nearly tripple the swings to break any of the other ones. If we're going to be that technical maybe he should have done it in a vacum so there was no wind resistance on the hammer or welded them in a pressure chamber purged with an inert gas to be sure that there was no possibiltity of atmospheric contamination? I mean where do you guys want to draw the line?

[welder_one]

too much room for human err on this test... a hammer? should be hydraulic or charpy or some other type of controlled dt test. i didnt watch the vid cause i dont feel like wasting my bandwidth on it... jsfab has it right, you cant possibly think that running all 4 types of rods on the same amperage settings would be correct, and to say that "well, they do it on the other site" also shows a level of thought, cause EVERYTHING you read on the internet is God's honest truth......ha!!!!!

when out on structural jobs, and welding in bridge angles for roof decks, and i gotta trim a piece, i chuck up a 6010 1/8 on the same 140 amps that i run the 7018's and and "cut" the angle to length... works better and faster than a cutting torch, and then i aint carrying a danged torch out on beams with me, just 2 rods pouches...


one thing is this, if the 70xx weld broke before a 60xx weld, then something is amiss... bad metal, incorrect angle, operator dont know how to weld, that list can go on and on (my thoughts is he was way too cold to be running a iron powder rod in the first place)

but, what do i know, i only weld for money so i can support my ex-wife...

[deahuntn]

I usually weld 6010 or 6011 at 120 amp on dc+ 7014 @ 130 on dc+ and 140 on ac those are both flat. 6013 i weld 120-130 dc+ and higher for ac. 7018 is about the same as 7014 but does freeze a little faster and is easier to run vertical but still has iron powder added to the flux. 6010 & 6013 penetrate deeper but for strength a properly welded piece using 7018 should break last because of its flexibility.