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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
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    7,591

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    Quote Originally Posted by eecervantes83 View Post
    These old. Welders were brought up without a digital display. And for that reason expect the same from the newer generation. I do just fine without the display. But I'm always curious about these details. l know theirs many variables .. & why hasn't anyone answered. My simple question instead of beating around the bush . Where could a get a plug & play voltage display to add on my Miller 211. Thanks.

    Completely pointless to have, what can you look at the display while your welding, baically its just eye candy. You turn your machine to 17 volts, there is 17 volts there. What, you need a volt meter to verify it there? Besides your starting out with ocv anyways.

    Its the guys that go out and buy a welder, then can't figure out how to use it. Thats why we get guys attempting to run mild steel or Aluminum wire off a CC power sourse. They don't have a clue. Or can't figure out why Straight Argon doesn't work for steel, or C25 for Aluminum. Then come here and whine about it. If you can't weld and have never taken even a basic welding course, we can't help you. Some of these questions are so bizzare, Its a wonder how the OP managed to get out of bed.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

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    Since people like to want some things that serve no real purpose to getting a good weld...How about a heads up display in my auto darkening helmet to watch while i am welding. Maybe picture in picture so i can watch sports channels at the same time.
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
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  3. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Northern CA, Shasta CO.
    Posts
    144

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    Quote Originally Posted by monte55 View Post
    Since people like to want some things that serve no real purpose to getting a good weld...How about a heads up display in my auto darkening helmet to watch while i am welding. Maybe picture in picture so i can watch sports channels at the same time.

    Voltage, wire speed and/or amperage settings serve no real purpose to getting a good weld?

    That's good to know.

    So the consensus here is to tune everything to sound and sound.

    Good enough for me.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Raymore Missouri
    Posts
    1,920

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    So the consensus here is to tune everything to sound and sound

    I don't get this.
    Nick
    Miller 252 Mig
    Miller Cricket XL
    Millermatic 150 Mig
    Miller Syncrowave 200 Tig
    2-O/A outfits
    Jet Lathe and Mill
    Jet 7x12 horz/vert band saw
    DeWalt Multi Cutter metal saw
    Century 50 Amp Plasma Cutter
    20 ton electric/hydraulic vertical press
    Propane Forge
    60" X 60" router/plasma table

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu7wicVCmQ
    Vist my site: www.nixstuff.com
    and check out some of my ironwork and other stuff

  5. #35

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    Sandy, you're twisting my words as well as putting words in my mouth. When you say things like "based on that logic then ... " and follow it with some twisted presumption of yours .... you put words in my mouth. I said the numbers were a starting point. I said they serve a purpose. I said they get you in the ballpark. Then you implied I said an entire diatribe of crap I never said. I noticed you did not address the points I did make, only the points you tried to make it look like I made.

    In the winter of 2006 I was paired with a fresh young weldor who had just gotten his B-Pressure Ticket about 4 months prior. We were given a header joint to weld on top of an economiser on a recovery boiler. Extremely tight and cramped quarters. 14" pipe, 5G position, very heavy wall, maybe 1.25" or 1.375". the root and hot pass had been put in by the night shift and we were to fill and cap with 1/8" 8018-B2. We were given a weld procedure with a minimal preheat requirement (think it was 50F) and a range of amperages we could use. We had wonderful welding machines to use; a pair of Miller XMT350s and they were only about 20 or 25 feet away from us making set-up quite easy. We still used remotes because of the very cramped quarters making getting in and out of the spot slow and difficult. Before we crawled in we both stood by our machines with remote in hand and set the machine. I chose 128 amps and the young fellow chose 125 amps. It was winter so we put the tiger torch to it to warm it up to about body temperature for about 6" either side and started welding. After we'd filled about 1/2 of it I lowered my heat a little and then a little more at around 3/4 full. The pipe was getting hot so the rod was running too hot and needed to be turned down.

    I noticed the young fellow was starting to do a lot of grinding and wasn't keeping up with me anymore like he had been at the start; burning rod for rod with me. I waited for him to stop grinding and asked him what the problem was. He said his machine was starting to act funny. We decided to switch machines. I passed him my stinger and remote between the tubes and he passed me his. He worked his way to a standing position so he could see his new machine and set it back to 125 amps. I didn't know where I'd had it set by that time. I wasn't looking. When I saw him do this it dawned on me what his problem was and I suggested he try a lower heat. He became abrasive with me, said I shouldn't tell him how to weld, etc. etc. I shut my yap and gave him his space and went back to work with his machine that was running perfectly normal except it was set too high. I finished my fill, capped it and cleaned it up and crawled out and had a smoke in our secret hiding spot around the corner under the stairwell. (No smoking on the job) I came back to see how he was doing. He was grinding like mad and still had at least 1/4" of fill left and he was angry. I climbed in closer to take a look. He had massive undercut the whole length of each pass and huge wagon tracks and unsightly lumps and bumps all over the place. It was awful. I looked over my shoulder and saw his machine was still set at 125 but mine was at 113. I was unable to talk to him about it. He was too angry. It seemed that now my machine was even worse than his and he reached through the tubes and got his own machine back and set it to 125. I cleaned up our area for the rest of the shift while he fought and swore and bruised his knuckles slamming things around. He never finished his weld. Night shift finished it. I was partnered up with another guy the next day and never worked with him again for the rest of the job so we never did talk about it. They ended up skidding him about a month or two later for his temper tantrums. He could have avoided all of it if he had listened to this "old weldor" and disregarded the numbers he was stuck on and just adjusted his heat by how it was welding. I never ran into him again so I don't know if he ever learned how to weld.

  6. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by monte55 View Post
    So the consensus here is to tune everything to sound and sound

    I don't get this.
    Sound? I normally weld wearing earplugs. Noisy jobsites.
    So I don't get that either but some people do apparently adjust their heat by sound. That's a skill I never had the luxury to learn while cutting my teeth in heavy industrial settings.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    2,835

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Sandy View Post
    No one has yet stated what is wrong with knowing what the actual voltage, wire speed or amperage is. Very well could be that knowing isn't necessary for many but I have a hard time understanding the concept that more info or knowledge is bad.

    Don't really need a speedometer, tachometer or odometer either. I could drive just fine without any of those.
    It is not a question of more info is bad, at least not for me in this thread about adding a volt meter or an amp meter to a mm211, but I still have not received an answer to my question to the people asking for a meter.

    If you had a meter- what does having this info do for you?

    ( sandy, you already answered with the WPS) but the folks asking for a meter have not responded to what they would do with the info provided by a meter on a MM 211.

    And it is the same thing in your analogy of the tach on a car; what do you do with the info? It may as well be random letters unless you know what the info you are getting from the tachometer is for. Just because it is reading engine RPM doesn't actually help the everyday driver one bit.

    More knowledge isn't bad- asking Miller to put a meter in the mm 211 or mm212
    Or Lincoln's equivalent class machines doesn't make sense, to me at least, because it doesn't matter and will only add $ to the machine and provide information one doesn't really need. Thrutraffic admitted he couldn't find any manufacturer that does this in on these class of machines.

    It's a tachometer on an automatic
    Ed Conley
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  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Hermiston Oregon
    Posts
    216

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    I'm Certified
    7 yrs Welding &
    Would like a display!
    .
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  9. #39

    Default

    Then buy a machine that has a display.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    147

    Default MM211 Voltage & wire speed dials?

    Check ebay

    Just do a search for voltmeter.

    http://shop.mobileweb.ebay.com/searchresults;PdsSession=d0813edd13a0a5aa66663d06f fe899e4?kw=Volt+meter&cmd=SREF&mfs=SBCLK&acimp=0&i sNewKw=true

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