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  1. #21
    Join Date
    May 2013



    Quote Originally Posted by Phewzer View Post
    100 is perfect,
    use 80 on a new tungsten to shape, then finish with the 100.
    Any thoughts regarding today's questions?



  2. #22


    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff2013 View Post
    Maybe it's something that will become clear once I attempt a couple. Sometimes a little advice goes a long way.Thanks Jeff
    I use a belt but same technique, always grind away from your face and body(hands) towards the point of the tungsten, with a wheel I would use the side and I would remove the shield, safety glasses MANDATORY.

    The better you get with tig the less critical this tungsten grinding hokus pokus will be.
    America, Clinging to our Guns and Religon since 1776.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Little Rock

    Default TIG Tungsten Grinding

    I'm having good results with two grits of lapidary disks jury rigged to the sides of my bench grinder wheels. Previously I used a Dremel tool and diamond discs from HF. I very much prefer the lapidary discs for the convenience and better quality results.

    I don't think the old rule about not grinding on the side of the wheel applies doing this. I have previously done this with end grinder sanding disks for 20+ years with no problem.

    The lapidary discs are rated for 10,000 RPM so no problem there.

    I'm currently tinkering with lapidary discs mounted on a household blender motor base with a protractor type tungsten holder using collets of various sizes. I'll send pics when project gets further along. Meanwhile, any ideas on this would be appreciated.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2013

    Default Tungsten grinding the accurate way

    Word of Caution
    Let me start by saying everything I say here is just my opinion.

    Every tungsten grinder that I could find doing an online search requires that you rotate the tungsten with your fingers. This means that the grinding process is stopped and started every time you have to re-grip the tungsten to keep rotating it which leaves a flat sport on the point. Alternatively, you can pull the tungsten away from the grinding wheel when you need to re-grip it then push it back against the grinding wheel which also will leave a flat spot on the point. Also, and because finger rotation is a manual process the speed of rotation varies thereby causing an up and down swirling pattern on the point rather than smooth consistent defined marks directly toward the point. As the electric current flows down the point smooth defined straight marks towards the point helps focus the arc at a single point, however, if there is a swirl pattern or an iritic or up and down swirl pattern it can result in a loss of focus at the point.

    A number of year’s back I had a tungsten grinder that the tungsten was held in a motorized collect which ran at a constant RPM and could be angled between 90 degrees and 5 degrees relative to the grinding wheel so you could grind almost any angle on the point. Once the motor holding the tungsten was turned on and rotating then you started the grinding wheel motor. Then you manually moved the rotating tungsten back and forth across the face of the grinding wheel thereby creating an ultra smooth point with virtually no swirls or marks. I wish I could remember the manufacture of the tungsten grinder but it escapes me….sign of age I guess. If anyone also recalls this type of tungsten grinder and the name brand please send me a message with the name of the manufacture……thanks.

    Anyway, even if I could get any of new type tungsten grinders for free that require rotating the tungsten with your fingers I wouldn’t use it. However, if you don’t care what quality of point you get or how destroyed the point geometry is then go ahead and buy one of the new finger held units or even better yet just buy a jar of chemical point maker…’s fast and the price is right.

    Actually, the best way I found online to grind the point is the folks who use a drill to rotate the Tungsten against almost any type of grinding wheel.

    Just my opinion
    Why Not

  5. #25


    Try the link below. The link is to a 6" diamond wheel you can use with your bench grinder (they have 8" wheels too). Works good. I used the 220 grit. AND don't grind of the contamination, cut the tungsten off above the contamination and regrind a point on it. Grinding the contamination off with the grinding wheel contaminates the grinding wheel. You can use the edge of the above wheel to grind a groove in the tungsten around the circumference above the contamination and then snap the tungsten off (make the groove deep) OR you can use the edge to grind a groove around the circumference until it completely cut the tungsten off.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2013

    Default Lots of Options


    Thanks for the input.

    I like the lapidary wheel.... had I done more research, or been made aware of that link sooner, I probably would have gone that route. Instead, I purchased the TechSouth grinder.

    I can see the interruption of the finger twist and contaminaton as being possible problems; but, I like the fact that the hand grinder will make a consistent angle without making the process too difficult. It bothered me to spend that much money just to grind the tungsten; but, now that it's spent, it's one less variable to worry about.

    I have been looking for a used tungsten grinder, like the TechSouth for 3 or 4 months. I have only seen one higher end grinder during my searches of eBay and Craigslist. I am hopeful that I can sell the grinder and not lose too much money should I decide to go the lapidary disk route. (In all honesty, I have only been accumulating what I think I'll need when I begin learning TIG. I look at the tungsten grinder similar to auto-darkening helmet that I upgraded to when learning MIG... one less variable to struggle with in the beginning.)

    Thanks for the input.


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