As soon as it warms up a little bit here in CT I'm going to tackle my first roll bar install.
Going to do an 8pt bar, chromoly and I have a couple of questions.
Can I tack things with a flux core mig and then go back over everything with the TIG or will the tack be too contaminated.
My TIG only has a foot pedal control that will be impossible to use while contorted in the car making welds. Is it possible to rig a simple on/off switch somehow. My TIG is a Syncrowave 180SD.
Results 1 to 10 of 30
Thread: Roll Bar Install
-
02-16-2012, 10:43 AM #1
Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Posts
- 69
Roll Bar Install
-
02-16-2012, 06:16 PM #2
I wouldn't do it with fluxcore...Bob
Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
-
02-16-2012, 07:05 PM #3
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2003
- Posts
- 2,019
Welding method, cage material and thickness are dictated by the sanctioning body and may vary by class... NHRA?.... SCCA? ...IMSA? ...WRC?.. NASA?
what does the rulebook say?The more you know, The better you know, How little you know............................. (Old Estonian Saying)
-
02-16-2012, 08:21 PM #4
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2005
- Location
- CT.
- Posts
- 332
Where in CT. are you.
Miller Dynasty 300DX
HTP MIG 240
HTP 380 Plasma
Bridgeport Milling Machine
South Bend Lathe
Etc. Etc....
tjsperformance.com
-
02-17-2012, 05:54 AM #5
Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Posts
- 69
Rulebook definately says TIG and it is my intention to TIG everything but I was thinking it would be far easier to tack everything up with the flux core mig and then go back over everything with full TIG welds. If that not cool then I'll go straight TIG.
I'm in East Hartford, CT
-
02-17-2012, 09:19 AM #6
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2003
- Posts
- 2,019
Brian
TIG welding around cars and for motorsports seems to require some forms of contortionist skills and physical torture involving bodily positions that just aint natural... pushing a pedal with elbow, knee, or..... having an assistant work the pedal for you.... it has all been done.... Luckily, these days there are a variety of hand controls available.... both from Miller and third parties... My personal favorite has to be the Weldcraft LS-17 torch with integrated hand control although I also have an RCC-14....
My suggestion would be to tack using the "scratch tig" method or to embrace the inevitable and invest in a hand control for those times when a pedal is too awkward...
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know............................. (Old Estonian Saying)
-
02-17-2012, 11:34 AM #7
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2009
- Location
- las vegas
- Posts
- 179
Why not solid wire tacks instead of flux. Seems like a lot of cleaning with the flux wire
Syncrowave 250
Millermatic 210
dialarc 250
spectrum 375x
trailblazer 302
Lincoln 135
-
02-20-2012, 07:15 AM #8
Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Posts
- 69
Mostly because of what I have on hand. I've been tiging alot of aluminum lately so both of my small 80cf tanks have straight argon in them. I would need to swap out a nearly full tank to get gas for the Mig.
It's amazing how expensive the torch mounted amperage controls are heck they cost more than I paid for the torch......
-
02-29-2012, 01:11 PM #9
Junior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2012
- Posts
- 10
What kind of car?
A number of the better cages I have seen use 2" (or tubing diameter) holes in the floor to "feed up" the tubing, this also allows you to weld the tops of the joints and keep it tight to the roof line, B pillars etc.. Holes are then filled and covered with the mounting plates.
-
02-29-2012, 01:59 PM #10
Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2011
- Posts
- 69
Car is a 1994 Thunderbird Super Coupe with a supercharged 6-cyl. Ran best of 11.17 last fall so it was time for some safety upgrades.
I've been told by a couple people about the hole in the floor board trick....definately gonna give that a go. I bought an 8pt roll bar kit from S&W I think all of the tubing is .083" wall 1-3/4"...also picked up some extra tubing so I can get in some practice before going live. Should be an interesting project but I can't do much other than make some practice welds until it warms up a bit since my garage isn't big enough to work on the car with the door wide open.


Reply With Quote









