Framing saw to cut through metal???

[bretsk2500]

double post.

[beamwalker]

This one is very nice

makita. We have 2 of them evolutions we tore to pieces very shortly

[drpipe]

Everyone has there own opinion of course . I work in a fab shop we have several of the metal cutting saws. Skill mags and another brand. They are ok if you take the time to clamp down a straight edge ...... Make sure you clean out the shavings trap after each use . Now I think using a skill saw with a metal blade works about the same . They both pretty much suck and are so loud . I use a track torch or my trusty burn bar and use a torch for half inch and up and a plazz cutter for 1/16 up to half . I cut some two inch plate last week with a track torch and number three tip. Then I finished making the final cuts by hand with a torch with number two tip and my helper holding a rose bud ahead of my cuts...... It looked great .

[foreverAstudent]

Wood cutting saws are really too fast for cutting metal. It will work, but the blade suffers with shorter life and doesn't cut as well at that speed. You should purchase a metal cutting saw. They have a lower blade speed and do the job well.

Charley

Do you have to change the blades of saws if you go from mild steel to stainless or aluminum so that the saw blade doesn't cause it to rust? I know you have to change grinding pads if you're going from mild steel to stainless or aluminum.

[drpipe]

**** no

[GilNewWelder]

makita. We have 2 of them evolutions we tore to pieces very shortly

Which type of blades do you use on the MAKITA?

[CharleyL]

We haven't cut any stainless yet, mostly mild steel. I did cut some aluminum for a couple of small projects and didn't experience any problems. A light spray of PAM cooking spray on the blades when cutting the aluminum helps keep the blade clean. After normal preparation the aluminum pieces TIG welded fine. Saw blades remain quite clean when compared to grinding disks. With grinding disks you get metal chips embedded into the disk, and they can easily get transferred and mixed into the surface of other metals. This doesn't happen with saw blades, drill bits, milling cutters, or lathe tooling.

If you don't guide these metal cutting saws and you try to free-hand cuts as you would a sheet of plywood you will tear up a metal cutting saw blade in a very short time. These blades will last for hundreds of cuts if you don't bind the blade in the cut or stop in the middle of the cut and then try to resume. The metal will work harden and dull the blade when you try to resume the cut. It only takes one bind or hardened metal spot to ruin a blade. Avoid cutting rebar or hardened metal with these saws. Use abrasive blades for this type of work.

Charley

[walker]

Don't buy the Evolution saw. I bought one early this year for a job and have used it quite a bit. It rattles itself apart, pars are continually falling off of it, and the the cheesy plastic miter gauge/lock thing slips. The blade height adjuster also slips about every other cut. I have no tried other brands, so can't reccomend another one though.

[Pass-N-Gas]

Save your money.
Buy a small plasma torch put a drag shield on it then use a straight edge.

Save more money,
Buy the circle cutting attachment for the round holes.

Once you go plasma you don't look back!