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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad, California, USA
    Posts
    4

    Default Welding Tubes on Chassis - Need Strategy

    I'm building a sports car chassis out of RHS and tubes in mild steel. I am a relatively new welder and using a Millermatic 140 (MIG) for the project.

    I've gotten to the point where I need to weld some 0.75" x 16 gauge tubular cross braces into a larger structure of 1.5" x 1.0" 14 gauge RHS (photo below).

    Front-Frame-Assembly.jpg

    While this is my first real need to do this, I will be doing it many times over the project and I'd like to produce high quality welds I'll be proud of. I'm not worried about them being strong enough. I've got the penetration, etc. down and my practice welds are plenty strong. However, I'd like some help on getting the weld to look good and flow together. Intuitively, my approach is to do 4 welds where each one is 1/4 of the perimeter of the joint. I don't know if that's right or wrong. It's just what came to mind.

    Also, the 4 segments don't overlap well and you can see each of the 4 welds clearly (examples below). I've seen much better on professional race cars, so I'm looking for some help and suggestions on how to make mine look good while remaining strong.

    Also, while my samples below are at 90 and 15 degrees, there are quite a few that will be at 45 degrees too. How does one handle the narrow (tight) part of those 45 degree welds? Do you let the filler wire get long and close to the join or do you just try to build up a fillet and don't worry about getting in deep between the pieces?

    Thanks,

    Lonnie

    PRACTICE EXAMPLES:

    Weld-Sample-2.jpg

    Weld-Sample-3.jpg
    Last edited by Lonnie-S; 04-23-2012 at 06:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    87

    Default

    ............
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    87

    Default

    .........
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Kemppi Pro Evolution 4200
    Kemppi 530 wire feed with MXE panel
    Kemppi ProCool ( coming soon)
    Cigweld TransMig 210se
    Cigweld TransTig 200 AC/DC
    Hypertherm PowerMax45
    CutSkill O/A setup
    Speedglas 9000x adflow
    Speedglas 9100xx

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis Indiana
    Posts
    200

    Default

    http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=30845

    Start reading.

    Follow the user ZTfab. Guy can weld mig like no ones business.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    illinois
    Posts
    98

    Default

    I would do those in 180 degree welds, ( 2 welds) Remember to never start or end on a tack. when tieing in to the next weld start in front of it to pre heat and burn back into the end of previous weld then proceed, i do almost like a half circle, burn into one toe then circle out to other toe then proceed welding, if you practice this too you can get it to burn in without the excessive build up. Practice doing 180's cause you will need to get used to rotating your wrist to keep up with proper work angles, remeber to plan ahead on where your tie ins will be so they will be the least visable(is what i do) as far as the sharper angle tubes i do a little of both, long arc and fill in the gap, i want to get in as deep as possible so i will let wire long arc a little but not enough to lose gas coverage and cause excessive splatter, another thing that helps me is i always start in the toughest, or hardest to view spot so it just gets more comftorable, hope this helps,

    ps. welds look pretty darn good for a beginner!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad, California, USA
    Posts
    4

    Default Thanks!

    Thank you to all who replied. I'll start following the thread mentioned.

    And, thank you Spence for the very specific suggestions. I can see where 180s make sense. I do think I'll need some practice with the wrist action for 180s. I'm right handed and tend to feel welding from right to left (push) is most natural for me - at least currently. So far, using a push technique, I haven't been able to weld further than the 90 degrees or so of my current samples without the tip twisting out of position. I think this is a case of practice, practice, practice.

    Also, I think I'm going to the local steel supplier and see if I can get some larger, scrap tubing to practice on. It just occurred to me that this would give me more of a chance to train my wrist to the task if I spread the process out over a larger geography while learning.

    Cheers,

    Lonnie

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Deltaville, VA
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    2,239

    Default

    Let us know where this "sports car" will be operating so we can avoid the area.
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Indianapolis Indiana
    Posts
    200

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SundownIII View Post
    Let us know where this "sports car" will be operating so we can avoid the area.
    Ok???

    Explain?
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  9. #9

    Default

    Everyone learning a new skill has to start somewhere but you have to learn how to walk before you can run and from your photos you're just beginning to crawl. Chassis work at your level of experience is dangerous and irresponsible.
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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Carlsbad, California, USA
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Old Skool View Post
    Everyone learning a new skill has to start somewhere but you have to learn how to walk before you can run and from your photos you're just beginning to crawl. Chassis work at your level of experience is dangerous and irresponsible.
    Nonsense!

    I'm relatively new to welding, but up to this task. You're making assumptions that are not based on fact or personal knowledge. I took two, 1-semester classes in welding at my local community college given by a man with 40 years of experience, 20 years of which was welding at nucular plants here on the west coast. He knows welding and did a good job of teaching us the basics of the four fundamental processes. I don't fool myself into thinking I'm an expert. However, I do know the basic requirements for a sound weld.

    I've practiced on numerous small sample coupons of the chassis material, carefully examining how well my welds penetrated and adjusting the voltage and feed speed to produce a good, basic weld. I purchased some good welding reference books and have read the sections relevant to the type of welding I'm doing.

    My fit-up is excellent. I make a point of it. Every joint is tight and there is no slop or big gaps to fill. I prepare and clean every joint before welding and bevel the edges of the members when appropriate to make sure I get good penetration. My welds may not be the prettiest around, but they are sound and strong.

    I'm never too proud to ask for help if I don't feel confident in my knowledge. Ninety percent of producing good work is having the right attitude and mastering the basics. I'm confident I have those things covered.

    Thanks again to all those who responded positively.

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