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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
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    3,913

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Shark Bait View Post
    Bob: So you are saying just plug the holes with a normal MIG unit set up for steel? What wire and gas? Never tried cast iron with my MIG unit - I have heard it does not work very well but that may be in high temp/high stress applications.
    No sorry with cast iron mig wire. It has the same properties of stick rod drawn out for mig wire. I love it and thats why i bought it for odd jobs just like yours. Seems like i get some every now and then...Bob
    http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet...ew_Warning.pdf
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
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    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
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  2. #12
    turbo38t Guest

    Default

    Guess I wasn't thinkin. I just remember breaking a lot of bits trying to drill cast.....too slow and they snag and snap.....too fast and u burn em up. ....I have definitely welded more cast than tapped it though.....haha
    Quote Originally Posted by H80N View Post
    why would it not work very well??

    engine blocks, machine tools and all manner of cast iron devices are routinely drilled and tapped without problem... what have I missed??

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,215

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SundownIII View Post
    Seems to me you're going to also have to change the size of the orifice.

    If turning the gas down now still still outputs too many btu's, plugging a few (or even a row of holes) is only going to result in more gas flow thru the remaining holes that haven't been plugged.

    Plugging holes hasn't changed the volume of gas that passes thru the orifice. All it's going to do is increase the velocity thru the remaining holes.
    YEP....Unless.............. it has a control valve like on the burners of a gas range or gas grill....
    Last edited by H80N; 03-19-2012 at 06:37 PM.
    .

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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24

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    Quote Originally Posted by SundownIII View Post
    Seems to me you're going to also have to change the size of the orifice.

    If turning the gas down now still still outputs too many btu's, plugging a few (or even a row of holes) is only going to result in more gas flow thru the remaining holes that haven't been plugged.

    Plugging holes hasn't changed the volume of gas that passes thru the orifice. All it's going to do is increase the velocity thru the remaining holes.
    Sundown: You are absolutely correct - any change in the number of "Ports" will drive a reduction in the size of the orifice and a corresponding change in the air shutter adjustment. I have researched this aspect of the project and know exactly what size orifice will be needed based on the number of "Ports" I block.

    Thanks for bringing this up - some folks may not understand the importance of the orifice & air shutter .

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,913

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by SundownIII View Post
    Seems to me you're going to also have to change the size of the orifice.

    If turning the gas down now still still outputs too many btu's, plugging a few (or even a row of holes) is only going to result in more gas flow thru the remaining holes that haven't been plugged.

    Plugging holes hasn't changed the volume of gas that passes thru the orifice. All it's going to do is increase the velocity thru the remaining holes.
    Sounds like he needs a globe valve installed before the burners to regulate the flow of gas...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aametalmaster View Post
    Sounds like he needs a globe valve installed before the burners to regulate the flow of gas...Bob
    I guess I should have included a little more information when I started this thread. The burner is on a "Commercial" style range. It has six of these burners each having a maximum Btu output of 23K Btu. Being on a range it has a very high quality adjustment valve for each burner that has a large range, is linear and smooth. The issue is it won't go low enough.

    I have it adjusted where the outer ring has very few "Ports" burning on low and it is still too hot for a low simmer. On low there is a separate "Low End" adjustment you make to the valve (Like an idle mixture screw on a carb). I can adjust it so low that flames will go out. Bottom line is the burner cap has too many ports for very low temperature simmering. What I am trying to do is take one of the burners and make it into a low temperature "Simmer Burner".

    One of the folks on a forum I frequent has blocked the two outer rings using Permatex Muffler and Tailpipe Putty. It works but looks like crap!

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    601

    Default

    Not being a smart as$ but did you take gas pressure readings ? Could it be a regulator adjustment upstream of the equipment ? just thinking. We had a gas service where the local Gas supplier upgrade the meter and pressure and the inside regulators were now on the high side {still within limits** so we had to drop down pressure to match equipment specs. Just curious.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24

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    Not a bad question. But no I have not measured the pressure as it exits the meter/regulator. However the range has it's own internal regulator and it appears to working normally.

    The real issue is the basic design of the burner. The manufacturer (Capital) has tried to make one burner do it all - from ultra low simmer to mega heat. This range has the hottest burner (23K Btu) of any residential range. All of the other upper end ranges use a dedicated simmer burner. This issue has been brought up to the manufacturer and I am told they are working on a "Solution".

    However, since being a hot rodder and welder since the 60s I figure I can do it myself, better. Additionally, doing stuff like this is fun.

    I do appreciate the recommendations and suggestions.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Deltaville, VA
    Posts
    2,239

    Default

    Shark,

    You say that the "ports" are .10" in dia. That makes them too large for a ight fit for 3/32" SS filler.

    If it was mine, I would drill out the holes to 7/64 (1/64 shy of 1/8") and measure the distance from the top of the burner hole to where an inserted rod would seat. I'd then cut lengths of 1/8" 304 SS filler to that length. Insert the filler (tight fit) and then just hit the tops of the filler with the tig arc. The filler is going to melt before the cast iron becomes fluid and seal the hole.

    PS. You may have to drill the holes a full 1/8" depending on how the cast drills, but you do want a tight fit.
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  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    24

    Default

    SundownIII:

    Thanks for the ideas. If I take this approach with the short pieces of 304 what 200 DX settings would you start with?

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