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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    st-eustache qc.canada
    Posts
    186

    Default harder to straighten than to bend...

    and the bigger the ram the weakest is the pull .

    your cylinder force ratio if 5 inches bore
    is about 19.63 : 1 @ 2000 psi...19.63 tons pushing

    if ram is 2.5 inches , substract ram surface = 14.72 :1 @ 2000 psi...14.72 t.pulling

    (3.1416 x radius square x psi)

    if unable to straighten you could also gouge it to about 1/2, straighten it and
    re-weld it, then put reinforcements in the back.

    good luck.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    594

    Default

    What if you leave as is and make another wedge to weld to that end ? Not sure what size that is but I used 6''x6''x1/2'' angle with a cutting edge welded to the end of the angle. Works awesome.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default

    I've tried a HEAVY chain and put as much load on it as I dare. It scares the stuffing out of to think of the loads and what would happen if the chain broke. In my attempt I zip tied a 12' 2"x2" board to the spool lever, sheltered behind a wood pile and gave it the juice. The backstop didn't budge and I was glad to have gotten away without additional problems like bodily injury, broken windshield or a hole in my neighbor,s house. Am I being overly cautious?

    I'll try a bit of all of the suggestions:
    chain w/ moderate pressure
    BFH
    heat

    Thank you VERY MUCH for the time and thinking!



    Quote Originally Posted by JSFAB View Post
    Sheesh, you have a cylinder right there. Loop a chain over the beam and hook it to itself, come out under the plate, behind the plate, over the plate, to the cylinder. Note: at least a 5/16 grade 70 chain, not hardware store chain. Pull back, then hit with a 12# to 24# sledge on the back side. Repeat as many times as necessary. Nothing major wrong with your design, just that the back-plate needs to be stiffer.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default

    Thank you. The gouging makes perfect sense... if it won't topple with head punches... kick it in the knees.

    Quote Originally Posted by snowbird View Post
    and the bigger the ram the weakest is the pull .

    your cylinder force ratio if 5 inches bore
    is about 19.63 : 1 @ 2000 psi...19.63 tons pushing

    if ram is 2.5 inches , substract ram surface = 14.72 :1 @ 2000 psi...14.72 t.pulling

    (3.1416 x radius square x psi)

    if unable to straighten you could also gouge it to about 1/2, straighten it and
    re-weld it, then put reinforcements in the back.

    good luck.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    st-eustache qc.canada
    Posts
    186

    Default Am I being overly cautious?

    NO! You are not, better be safe than....whatever else.

    Take your time, have fun, make it right and when job done contemplate it with satisfaction, that will be the only gratification you might expect.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,376

    Default

    Agreed, this is simple and the up side is it wont cost much, kink or not I agree with welding simple stiffener in the back, several ways to do it, a plate may be sufficient but 2 plates with a backer would be the best, a chunk of 6 inch heavy channel would be the easiest, even chunk of tube steel
    This is what makes welding so useful. We had a repair the other day, pin fell out of something and bent or broke a cyl end and a bracket,,, that was the bad news, that and half a day labor, the upside is we had everything to do it with, no expensive part to source or wait for.
    A big chunk of steel and a weld up each side, bend it back a little, touch extra the other way.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default

    You're right! I want it to remain fun and not turn into a Darwin award story.

    I have a couple cords of split green wood and several dry so there isn't really any panic.

    Quote Originally Posted by snowbird View Post
    NO! You are not, better be safe than....whatever else.

    Take your time, have fun, make it right and when job done contemplate it with satisfaction, that will be the only gratification you might expect.

  8. #18

    Default

    I don't know how easy it is for you to cut that backer plate or if you have any more of that plate material, but here is an idea to stop the backer bending more and provide a square surface to split against.



    You could sharpen the new plate or leave it square.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    16

    Default

    I just tried a come-along, heat from an acetylene torch and a 7lb sledge and I got nothing. My neighbor offered his oxy-acet rig with a rosebud for heat so that's the next step in addition to a bigger hammer. If that doesn't work I'll cut a slot halfway through the back of it and use all of the above methods, again. If (when) she straightens out I'll add in three 1/2" plate braces to backside and maybe even two on the front side.

    He offered but I hate borrowing tools.

    I sure do appreciate all of the responses. Thank you.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Uxbridge, Ontario
    Posts
    19

    Default

    I'd heat it up, use a chain and pull it with the hyd cylinder. But throw an old beach towel or bed sheet over the middle of the chain. If the chain breaks, the towel will dampen any recoil. Also, if you are worried, attach a small rope to the hyd valve so you can stand out of harms way. If you break the chain it isnt anywhere hot enough.
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