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  1. #1

    Default Roll Bar Install

    As soon as it warms up a little bit here in CT I'm going to tackle my first roll bar install.

    Going to do an 8pt bar, chromoly and I have a couple of questions.

    Can I tack things with a flux core mig and then go back over everything with the TIG or will the tack be too contaminated.

    My TIG only has a foot pedal control that will be impossible to use while contorted in the car making welds. Is it possible to rig a simple on/off switch somehow. My TIG is a Syncrowave 180SD.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,898

    Cool

    I wouldn't do it with fluxcore...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,059

    Default

    Welding method, cage material and thickness are dictated by the sanctioning body and may vary by class... NHRA?.... SCCA? ...IMSA? ...WRC?.. NASA?
    what does the rulebook say?
    .

    *******************************************
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    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    CT.
    Posts
    333

    Default

    Where in CT. are you.
    Miller Dynasty 300DX
    HTP MIG 240
    HTP 380 Plasma

    Bridgeport Milling Machine
    South Bend Lathe
    Etc. Etc....
    tjsperformance.com

  5. #5

    Default

    Rulebook definately says TIG and it is my intention to TIG everything but I was thinking it would be far easier to tack everything up with the flux core mig and then go back over everything with full TIG welds. If that not cool then I'll go straight TIG.

    I'm in East Hartford, CT

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    3,059

    Default

    Brian
    TIG welding around cars and for motorsports seems to require some forms of contortionist skills and physical torture involving bodily positions that just aint natural... pushing a pedal with elbow, knee, or..... having an assistant work the pedal for you.... it has all been done.... Luckily, these days there are a variety of hand controls available.... both from Miller and third parties... My personal favorite has to be the Weldcraft LS-17 torch with integrated hand control although I also have an RCC-14....
    My suggestion would be to tack using the "scratch tig" method or to embrace the inevitable and invest in a hand control for those times when a pedal is too awkward...
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    las vegas
    Posts
    227

    Default

    Why not solid wire tacks instead of flux. Seems like a lot of cleaning with the flux wire
    Syncrowave 250
    Millermatic 210
    dialarc 250
    spectrum 375x
    trailblazer 302
    Lincoln 135

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by strictlycarved View Post
    Why not solid wire tacks instead of flux. Seems like a lot of cleaning with the flux wire
    Mostly because of what I have on hand. I've been tiging alot of aluminum lately so both of my small 80cf tanks have straight argon in them. I would need to swap out a nearly full tank to get gas for the Mig.

    It's amazing how expensive the torch mounted amperage controls are heck they cost more than I paid for the torch......

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    10

    Default

    What kind of car?
    A number of the better cages I have seen use 2" (or tubing diameter) holes in the floor to "feed up" the tubing, this also allows you to weld the tops of the joints and keep it tight to the roof line, B pillars etc.. Holes are then filled and covered with the mounting plates.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by csedan510 View Post
    What kind of car?
    A number of the better cages I have seen use 2" (or tubing diameter) holes in the floor to "feed up" the tubing, this also allows you to weld the tops of the joints and keep it tight to the roof line, B pillars etc.. Holes are then filled and covered with the mounting plates.
    Car is a 1994 Thunderbird Super Coupe with a supercharged 6-cyl. Ran best of 11.17 last fall so it was time for some safety upgrades.

    I've been told by a couple people about the hole in the floor board trick....definately gonna give that a go. I bought an 8pt roll bar kit from S&W I think all of the tubing is .083" wall 1-3/4"...also picked up some extra tubing so I can get in some practice before going live. Should be an interesting project but I can't do much other than make some practice welds until it warms up a bit since my garage isn't big enough to work on the car with the door wide open.

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