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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    45

    Thumbs down Miller 211 & series 100 Spool gun, Problem solved!

    Sorry for the title but I am so frustrated with Miller right now!

    A little back ground of myself and my equipment.

    I have been in the fab business now 36 years, ran just about ever machine made, stick, mig and tig. This year I got a very nice contract to build some components for our military and decided it was time to upgrade all of my welders and plasma cutter.

    I went to my local Airgas and bought the following:

    1) Miller 350P Mig with a XR pro and Mig gun
    2) Miller 350 LX Tig
    3) Miller 211 with series 100 spool gun
    4) Miller 875 Plasma

    Needless to say it was a chunk of change, but I am fine with that.

    Now then, I have fought the 350P now as long as I can and it was returned to Airgas for repair, one day it runs as bad-ass as it gets and perfect as its advertised, the next day its a PITA, thats another story.

    However the Miller Rep. did come out, did not have a clue what he was looking at and didn't even bring a hood with him! But was sure trying to sell me a new Miller welding jacket!

    Its all good thought, I have a Brand new 211 that works like a dream on steel, so I will hook up the spool-gun that I have never taken out of the box and use it while my 350P is in the shop.

    I am working on an aluminum project that is all 5086 tube and sheet. the tube 1/4" and the sheet 1/8", I take the spool gun out of the box, hook it up, try a test coupon, 1/8" sheet to 1/8" sheet in a flat fillet position, look at their little chart inside the door for a starting point, which is 5.5V/65w, **** near blew the tip off.

    All is good though, its just a starting point... So after a little adjusting I have ended up with 5.5V/100w, AND THATS ON 1/8"material!!!

    There is no way in **** MY machine could weld anything thicker.

    I tried to weld a piece of 1/8" to the 1/4" tube, it just balled right up... It has more voltage but I'm tapped out on wire speed.

    Here is what where I'm at with wire and gas:

    100% pure Argon
    DCEP
    Gas is 22 CFH
    .035 5356

    I'm **** near ready to have my local Miller dealer come pick all this crap up and refund my money!

    OK, so Rant over!

    Those of you that have this combination were are you running at for this given material thickness?

    Danno,
    Unique Metalcraft Inc.
    Last edited by Danno; 12-13-2012 at 01:14 PM.
    Miller 350 LX Tigrunner
    Miller 350P w/XR-Pro
    Miller 250MP w/30A spool
    Miller 211 Autoset
    Hobart Tigwave 250
    Hobart Beta-Mig 251

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Cool, Ca
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Im no expert and ive only had my spoolgun for 2 days but i was right there with ya when i first started with 220v input, I tried it with the 110v input and it seemed to weld much much better. With that i feel it enought heat to weld 1/4''. I was getting the same balled up bird poo with the 220v plug. And i think you answered my question that i posted a day ago. I think you are right about the wire speed. Not enough wire can be pushed to brn that hot. Thanks Danno, Mike

  3. #3
    turbo38t Guest

    Default

    I would use .045 minumum for 1/4" alum. U trying spray arc? Not for nothin but why a hobby machine for a veteran fab shop? I havenr used a 350p in 4 years but it worked well back then
    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    Sorry for the title but I am so frustrated with Miller right now!

    A little back ground of myself and my equipment.

    I have been in the fab business now 36 years, ran just about ever machine made, stick, mig and tig. This year I got a very nice contract to build some components for our military and decided it was time to upgrade all of my welders and plasma cutter.

    I went to my local Airgas and bought the following:

    1) Miller 350P Mig with a XR pro and Mig gun
    2) Miller 350 LX Tig
    3) Miller 211 with series 100 spool gun
    4) Miller 875 Plasma

    Needless to say it was a chunk of change, but I am fine with that.

    Now then, I have fought the 350P now as long as I can and it was returned to Airgas for repair, one day it runs as bad-ass as it gets and perfect as its advertised, the next day its a PITA, thats another story.

    However the Miller Rep. did come out, did not have a clue what he was looking at and didn't even bring a hood with him! But was sure trying to sell me a new Miller welding jacket!

    Its all good thought, I have a Brand new 211 that works like a dream on steel, so I will hook up the spool-gun that I have never taken out of the box and use it while my 350P is in the shop.

    I am working on an aluminum project that is all 5086 tube and sheet. the tube 1/4" and the sheet 1/8", I take the spool gun out of the box, hook it up, try a test coupon, 1/8" sheet to 1/8" sheet in a flat fillet position, look at their little chart inside the door for a starting point, which is 5.5V/65w, **** near blew the tip off.

    All is good though, its just a starting point... So after a little adjusting I have ended up with 5.5V/100w, AND THATS ON 1/8"material!!!

    There is no way in **** MY machine could weld anything thicker.

    I tried to weld a piece of 1/8" to the 1/4" tube, it just balled right up... It has more voltage but I'm tapped out on wire speed.

    Here is what where I'm at with wire and gas:

    100% pure Argon
    DCEP
    Gas is 22 CFH
    .035 5356

    I'm **** near ready to have my local Miller dealer come pick all this crap up and refund my money!

    OK, so Rant over!

    Those of you that have this combination were are you running at for this given material thickness?

    Danno,
    Unique Metalcraft Inc.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,364

    Default

    Running 030 in this will help some, aluminum can be fussy. Gun angle and stick out are critical, it can be easy to forget little things that are more forgiving with steel. I play with the speed small adjustments. For you guys having problems,,, yes,, something wrong for sure, this machine should weld the same on 240 as 120 with more top end. I will see if I can look up a couple pics.
    Last edited by Sberry; 02-16-2012 at 07:40 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Appleton, Wisconsin U.S.A.
    Posts
    131

    Default Miller wants to help

    Danno-

    So sorry to hear of your troubles. Thanks for bringing up your concerns and we're working to get you an answer to the issues you've experienced. Contact us directly via forum@millerwelds.com with more information about your location, contact information and issue specifics and we'll see what we can do to get this figured out.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Miller Welders View Post
    Danno-

    So sorry to hear of your troubles. Thanks for bringing up your concerns and we're working to get you an answer to the issues you've experienced. Contact us directly via forum@millerwelds.com with more information about your location, contact information and issue specifics and we'll see what we can do to get this figured out.
    Email sent.

    Danno
    Miller 350 LX Tigrunner
    Miller 350P w/XR-Pro
    Miller 250MP w/30A spool
    Miller 211 Autoset
    Hobart Tigwave 250
    Hobart Beta-Mig 251

  7. #7
    turbo38t Guest

    Default

    Why would he run .30 if hes maxed on wire speed with .035?! Almost sounds like likeu have the wrong rollers in the gun....
    Quote Originally Posted by Sberry View Post
    Running 030 in this will help some, aluminum can be fussy. Gun angle and stick out are critical, it can be easy to forget little things that are more forgiving with steel. I play with the speed small adjustments. For you guys having problems,,, yes,, something wrong for sure, this machine should weld the same on 240 as 120 with more top end. I will see if I can look up a couple pics.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Posts
    2,795

    Default

    This may sound off the wall.... but .... try another work clamp/lead...

    the work clamps supplied with those machines are marginal at best.... you may not be getting a good ground... they will give you trouble sooner or later... maybe sooner this time??
    One of first things that I do when I get a new machine is to replace the cheezy factory supplied work/ground clamp with a good quality bronze clamp, along with a heavier and longer lead....

    may sound nutty... but I have seen similar stuff time after time....
    .

    *******************************************
    The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......

    “The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”

    Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...

    My Blue Stuff:
    Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
    Dynasty 200DX
    Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
    Millermatic 200

    TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus Mills, Lathes & a Rat Tail File..

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by H80N View Post
    This may sound off the wall.... but .... try another work clamp/lead...

    the work clamps supplied with those machines are marginal at best.... you may not be getting a good ground... they will give you trouble sooner or later... maybe sooner this time??
    One of first things that I do when I get a new machine is to replace the cheezy factory supplied work/ground clamp with a good quality bronze clamp, along with a heavier and longer lead....

    may sound nutty... but I have seen similar stuff time after time....
    Good point, and NOT nutty at all, I did the same thing on my 350P & 350Lx the day I got them! replaced the cable and clamps with the tweco 400 amp Bronze clamps.

    I was thinking the same thing yesterday morning with this little 211, so I grabbed the factory ground clamp and cable that came off the 350P, but the cable is too large to go through the front of the machine without drilling a bigger hole and I don't really want to do that because I may just send the whole mess back to them.

    However just for the heck of it, I'll open the side door and hook it up through there just to verify and if it works, I'll open up the hole in the front.

    From the response's I have gotten on this issue, I must be only the second person in the US that has this combo, because only one has stepped up and says theirs works perfect or has the same problems.

    If I was a hobbyist that would be one thing, but this is how I make my living and darn its frustrating to spend that much money and get this type of qualitiy. At least my 350LX works like it should!

    Danno
    Miller 350 LX Tigrunner
    Miller 350P w/XR-Pro
    Miller 250MP w/30A spool
    Miller 211 Autoset
    Hobart Tigwave 250
    Hobart Beta-Mig 251

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by turbo38t View Post
    Why would he run .30 if hes maxed on wire speed with .035?! Almost sounds like likeu have the wrong rollers in the gun....
    Exactly!

    Thats why I said "against my best jugment" If I am tapped out with .035 how is .030 going to help. But they are the manufacture and I will try what they want before returning it.

    It's like the feed motor won't push the wire fast enough or is way out of sync with the speed control.

    Am I missing a switch or tap setting I just don't see? Airgas tells me its just plug and go and all should be fine.

    I will call Miller in the AM, I now have a contact thanks to the Mod here on the boards.
    Miller 350 LX Tigrunner
    Miller 350P w/XR-Pro
    Miller 250MP w/30A spool
    Miller 211 Autoset
    Hobart Tigwave 250
    Hobart Beta-Mig 251

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