I purchased a 120 watt Scroll Saw to cut out my curved ali shapes.
The saw works fine so far up to 4mm thick 5038.
The only problem is the saw blade chuck.
When changing blades or after piercing some project, doing up the allen key screw is not so easy.
So I made a small chuck vise to help out. It also holds my allen keys.
I have not TIG welded ali for months just stainless steel and my welding around tube has never been the best so you guys will have to cut me some slack on the welds.
Anyway I hope you enjoy the images.
Ji
Results 1 to 9 of 9
Thread: Aluminium Scroll Saw Chuck Vice
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02-15-2012, 01:25 AM #1
Aluminium Scroll Saw Chuck Vice
Grip it and Rip it
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02-15-2012, 07:11 PM #2
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Upstate SC
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I have a Hegner saw, and it has a built in chuck vise. Similar to yours. Couldn't do without it.
JDOld Miller Swinger 180 Buzzbox
Miller Diversion 165
Smithy Lathe/Mill
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02-15-2012, 11:24 PM #3
They are a nice unit.
Mine is a Hafco made in China.
Expensive but rough finished.
Works fine though and the 120 watt motor is powerfull enough.
I would love to get a Excalibur but here they cost $1000.00 so out of my price range.
JiGrip it and Rip it
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02-15-2012, 11:38 PM #4
Hey Chewinggum,
Do you use a foot control with your scroll saw?
A few times when internally cutting I have lifted my right hand off the work piece to switch the machine off and the blade has caught and broken in the blink of an eye.
JiGrip it and Rip it
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02-16-2012, 05:03 AM #5
Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
- Location
- Upstate SC
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- 130
Yes, I put my own on-off foot switch on mine. I built a low table that I can sit down at and saw, with foot switch on the floor. It is not variable on the foot, I set the speed on the machine and then just use the foot control for starting and stopping.
JDOld Miller Swinger 180 Buzzbox
Miller Diversion 165
Smithy Lathe/Mill
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02-16-2012, 03:15 PM #6
I have ordered a foot control but it will take a few weeks to get here than I have to get a sparky to wire it.
Still worth the wait as the sound a blade makes when it breaks is shocking.
JiGrip it and Rip it
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02-18-2012, 08:53 AM #7
Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- Central North Carolina
- Posts
- 133
You can get foot switches with a power cord and receptacle already connected to them. You just plug your saw into the receptacle on the foot switch and then plug the foot switch into the wall. There are two types of these foot switches. One type is only on when your foot is on it (the dead man type) and the other requires you to step on it once to turn it on and then step on it again to turn it back off. For my use I prefer the first (dead man) type, so I have to hold my foot on it for the tool to run. I also use these on my router table, drill press, and sometimes with the table saw and the band saw. They are a great safety feature. Here are the ones that I use http://www.ptreeusa.com/band_saw_acc.htm About 1/2 way down the page you will see both types listed.
Charley______________________________
Miller MM252
Miller Bobcat 225NT
Miller DialArc HF & DIY Cooler
2 Miller Digital Elite and 3 Fixed Shade Helmets
2 O/A torch sets
DeWalt 18 volt 1/2" Driver/Drill
DeWalt 18 volt 6 1/2" Metal Saw
DeWalt Porta Band & SWAG Offroad V3 Table
Milwaukee 8" Dry Cut Saw
Milwaukee 14" Dry Cut Chop Saw / Delta Stand
Milwaukee 9" Grinder
2 Milwaukee 4 1/2" Grinders
Milwaukee Hole Hawg 1/2" Drill
Wallace 5 Ton Gantry
Too many hand tools
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02-19-2012, 01:41 AM #8
Thanks Charley,
JiGrip it and Rip it
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02-26-2012, 01:15 AM #9
This post is for entertainment only and should not be tried or relied upon.
I had to slot a 16mm thick chunk of 6061 ali today.
I could have milled it but it would take to long to set up so I just drilled two holes and scroll sawed the bit in between.
Not as accurate as a mill but it got the job done and I did not even break a blade.
JiGrip it and Rip it


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