This looks like a fun repair, huh?
It is my buddy's lower unit on a boat he just picked up. The engine has just been rebuilt and purrs like a kitten, but there is some damage to the lower unit that I have been elected by unanimous vote to try and repair.
Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture before I started to clean up someone else's FIRST attempt at welding this some time ago (which didn't hold at all). I think the culprit might be the guy below because it looked a whole lot like pigeon $hit!! haha
Having said that, I might not do much better! I am working with a Millermatic 211 and a Spoolmate. Wish me luck!
(No doubt, I have a feeling my work will be ground flat and painted.)
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01-20-2012, 05:23 PM #1
Outboard engine repair - lower unit
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01-20-2012, 05:40 PM #2
I picked up where someone else left off on one of these. They hadn't properly cleaned the material at the joint and was also missing a small piece. I should have cut it off and fit a new solid piece in and shaped as needed after welded. Would have been much easier and quicker in the long run.
MM200 w/spot controller and Spoolmatic 1
Syncrowave 180 SD
Bobcat 225G Plus LPG/NG w/14-pin*
*Homemade Suitcase Wire Feeder
*HF-251D-1
*WC-1S & Spoolmatic 1
PakMaster 100XL
Marquette "Star Jet" 21-110

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01-20-2012, 06:07 PM #3
Senior Member
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- East Tennessee
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I've done a few of those. http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...sionKing/page2
Dynasty 200DX "Blue Lightning"
Bernard 3500ss water-cooler
Rockwell vertical mill
Beverly Shear B-3
Beverly Shear JR
Home-made English wheel
Milwaukee Porta-band
" Sawz-all
Tennsmith 36" stomp shear
Fixer upper 1982 Lincoln sa200
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01-20-2012, 06:28 PM #4
That's nice lookin' work!
Here is my start before I have to shut it down for the night... go the wifey taking me out somewhere to eat for my birthday.
It's not as pretty as you tig boys, but I think I can piece this back together. The biggest problem will be were the anode goes in place. That is a HUGE hole. There is an aftermarket cavitation (sp?) plate that bolts on, hence the holes. I wonder if I even need to fill in this hole. ?? I probably better. Maybe I'll cut a little jigsaw piece and weld it in place.
Here is a shot of the first pass. Again, no nearly as pretty as a TIG weld!

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01-21-2012, 04:48 AM #5
I do some of those every summer. For the big holes i just lay it on a piece of clean steel and weld over it, instant patch...Bob
Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
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01-21-2012, 01:27 PM #6
what the boat guys appear to do here is put a copper backing strip behind the repair (big hole) and with a spoolgun and preheat, weld to both sides of the crack till its gone then machine the unit to spec.
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01-21-2012, 05:26 PM #7
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- Jan 2012
- Location
- Harrisburg, PA
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I've done many of these
replacement Skegs can be bought. They are of the same grade aluminum as the lower units. Simply cut to match your repair area.
Here's a link from one supplier:
http://www.iboats.com/Lower-Unit-Rep...view_id.217150
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10-10-2012, 06:14 PM #8
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- Nov 2010
- Location
- Oregon
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Outboard engine repair - lower unit
Your welding cast aluminum with mig? What are you using for wire?
That needs to be tig welded.Miller 350 LX Tigrunner
Miller 350P w/XR-Pro
Miller 250MP w/30A spool
Miller 211 Autoset
Hobart Tigwave 250
Hobart Beta-Mig 251
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10-10-2012, 06:23 PM #9
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Thread from January guys, revived by a spammer.




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