Hi. I bought my first miller 211 almost 3 years ago. unfortunately it and all of my other tools were stolen about a month later. insurance was useless, and so were the cops, and i never got a penny.
now i'm considering buying another one, but don't want to get one until i can figure out how to secure it properly.
i've been playing with some ideas of building a cage out of 3/8-1/2" flat stock that would attach and hinge off of one of the main support beams in the garage, and then pivot down over the welder and lock to the floor with 1 or 2 of those industrial hockey puck looking locks that you see on work vans sometime.
i had someone try to steal my air compressor, but i had it secured to a main support beam with a 6,000# logging chain pulled through the engine plate that is welded to the compressor, and a 10" long 3/4" bolt dipped in red locktite that went through the support beam. then i also had 2 steel plates that went over the legs of the compressor and were anchored to the floor with 1/2" bolts. they failed to steal it, and only managed to unplug the power cord.
Obviously a setup like that wouldn't quite work, as i need the welder mobile, and going through the handle is a joke since it's plastic. that's why i've been playing with a full cage idea that would be attached to the beam and the floor.
any other ideas or suggestions on how to secure a welder??? I really would like to get one again, but don't want a repeat of last time. because $2,600 is alot of money for a **** miller 211. LOL
Results 1 to 10 of 58
Thread: ideas to secure welder in garage
12-17-2011, 10:50 AM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
ideas to secure welder in garage
Last edited by scorpio_vette; 12-17-2011 at 10:57 AM.
12-17-2011, 11:35 AM #2
After you get your cage built make sure that you can't get to the mig gun and the welder switch because you can turn it up and burn right thru the metal. Just sayin...BobBob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
12-17-2011, 12:08 PM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
seems to me that it would be easier to secure whatever building your tools are stored in.....Bobcat 225NT
Lincoln Weld-Pak 100 buzz box
'07 Kawasaki ZZR600
12-17-2011, 01:20 PM #4
I agree fully with you on that.
If the OP wants to be able to move his machine easily, then a thief will do the same, but do it more quickly.
Securing an entrance door (or wherever the machine is rolled to exit the shop is much easier to do than putting the machine inside a cage.
A lot less trouble for the owner to use as well.
I simply put two double keyed deadbolt locks on my shop door and never worry about it.
To roll the 250 lb MM251 out of the shop they will have to open the door or remove it.
Not going to be easy for them to do that.
But a thief can disable anything if he has a mind to.
Just a matter of how much time he has to do it and if he can escape without getting shot dead.
Dynasty 200 DX_set up on 3 phase
MM 251 w/ Spoolmatic 30A
HTP 625 Micro Cut Plasma Cutter
Victor O/A Rig
Bridgeport Mill_3 phase (w/ Acu-Rite 4 axis DRO)
10 inch South Bend Lathe_3 phase
Baldor Double Cup Tool Grinder_3 phase
Baldor 10 inch Buffer
Rockwell 12 inch Disc Sander
Cyclone 2ft X 3ft Bead Blast Cabinet
Quincy 325 2stg- Air Compressor_3 phase
Graymills Built-in Parts Washer
Rockwell/Delta Planer, HD Shaper, Uni-Saw etc.
12-17-2011, 02:49 PM #5Senior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Deltaville, VA
If you're paying $2,600 for a 211, someone's not shopping very smart.
Sounds to me like you got ripped off TWICE. Once from the place you bought your welder, and once from the thief.
Sounds to me like you need to take the money you didn't need to pay for a 211 and find a better insurance company.
Whole thing smells kinda fishy though.
Locks are designed to keep honest people honest. If you can use it, a decent thief (if there's such a thing) can defeat your safeguards.
Ever considered moving to a better neighorhood?Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200 DX
Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
Dialarc 250 AC/DC
Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
More grinders than hands
12-17-2011, 04:22 PM #6
01-09-2012, 01:35 PM #7Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
Just pick up a inexpensive GPS tracker
Pick up a cheap GPS Tracker , For example: I have a cheapie garmin gtu strong 3m double sided taped in both my Miller Diversion 180 & my Miller 211 Mig, and a couple more feature rich models hiden in my Irreplaceable show cars... Anything ends up missing... Myself , (laptop logged into google search), and my Kimber .45 will be taking a little drive, lol....Cops can come along if they like...or if not, that's fine too, lol ...PS: The common welder (or tools) thief will NEVER suspect something like this, and you WILL get it back ASAP.
Last edited by Joe B; 01-09-2012 at 01:39 PM.
01-09-2012, 01:49 PM #8
Have you tested it to make sure it has full communication???.
The more you know, The better you know, How little you know......
“The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten”
Buy the best tools you can afford.. Learn to use them to the best of your ability.. and take care of them...
My Blue Stuff:
Dynasty 350DX Tigrunner
Millermatic 350P w/25ft Alumapro & 30A
TONS of Non-Blue Equip, plus CNC Mill, Lathes & a Plasmacam..
01-12-2012, 12:26 PM #9
Gps tracking sounds like a cool idea.
Not knowing the layout of your shop makes it harder to suggest options. First I would suggest a sturdy set of doors and window bars. Doors can be opened up, steel doors, and reinforced. I've done it and as long as frame/hinges sturdy enough only have to worry about having to remount it with extra weight. I would also suggest an alarm with a loud squander. I have a system in my house/ shop that is cellular or land line and backup power for 48hrs if power drops. All for under 50$ a mo. It has a siren that if tripped almost made me want to run away from my own place. I have seen caged areas taking a wall or corner that would be a good next step. Floor to ceiling, sturdy enough where a hand operated tool pop something loose or separate sections. Would also sink anchors everywhere fastening to floor walls and ceiling. I would make footprint large enough to put everything you wish to secure on hard wall side of cage so they can't reach anything to help them. Leave nothing that could be used to defeat cage unsecured. More securable cabinets or cages inside primary cage could be made but if first cage is sturdy enough I would cover everything up. Many other ideas I've come up with after my place was broken in to some legal, but your service doors (bay doors, garage style, whatever you call them) are a soft point also. I could also put a full cage or if structure is sturdy enough cables that could hold back a car trying to bend door. I personal would do alarm ( loud one, even with out monitoring service), window bars, reinforce door / locks in door, and service door. Make hard to get in, once in alarm will make it harsh / uncomfortable to continue. Alarm systems can be simple or with all bells and whistles, turns on cameras transmit to your phone,etc. I've rambled long enough, it gets under my skin when my stuff gets taken so I understand your situation.
01-14-2012, 02:39 AM #10Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
Hmm, build a tool box or buy one and reinforce it with aluminum sheets and stainless or if your on a budget, mild steel. I say stainless and aluminum because it will be harder for the thief to try and cut it with a grinder and impossible with a OA torch. Bolt that sucker down to the concrete/wall and when you are ready to pack up for the night, put the welder, grinders and other expensive tools in there. Forget Masterlocks and ANY padlock you get at Lowes, HD etc! Get an Abloy padlock or pucklock, they are far superior than anything else period!
A box like structure with lots of flat metal that is fully enclosed is alot harder to try and grind or even plasma through. Run square tubing within the box structure to make it even more of a chore to cut through. Grinders can cut less than half of the diameter of their blade until they are maxed out.
You gotta think what types of shapes of metals are hard to cut through when you are fabbing up stuff and apply that to your security enclosure.
Another good, cheap, and easy way to make it difficult for someone to try and make off with your welders is to back up an old truck or car to the machines carefully and then take out a fuse or something.