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  1. #1
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    Default *******NOOB ALERT*********Help PleASE

    Ok, I Just got a Syncrowave 200.............

    I mainly bought it to weld thin (.030-.063) aluminum.

    The problem is that I have an unstable (at best) arc. I am seeing a wide (1 inch Blue arc cone that has little sparks all around. What is wrong? The only cups I have are a 10n48 and a 10n50, what "number" are those (#7 , #8 etc....)? I am using a 3/32 ceriated tungsten.

    I have had great sucess welding stainless, and poor results on aluminum.

    What I would like to know is ,

    Lets say that you are welding .040 aluminum:
    What cup size?
    What flow rate?
    tungsten?
    PPS?
    AMPS?
    BALANCE?

    Thanks
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
    Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
    Makita Everything else
    2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
    "Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
    USA 15T, 15V

    www.myspace.com/blackbird455

    http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder

  2. #2
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    Rosetown, SK.
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    519

    Default

    Make sure you are switched to AC. for aluminum. Let us know if this may be your problem.

  3. #3
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    Thumbs up

    Yeah............I paid $2,500 for a machine.......... I researched it thouroughly......... The whole A/C thing goes without saying, I should have specified though

    Notice I did say BALANCE?
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
    Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
    Makita Everything else
    2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
    "Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
    USA 15T, 15V

    www.myspace.com/blackbird455

    http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    near rochester NY
    Posts
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    Default

    drop down to the 1/16" tungs. i would also go with one of the rare earth tungstens you can point and add a small flat to for better control. that may allow you to stay with the 3/32" tung. if you are using pure tungsten balled i suspect the 3/32" is too large. what filler are you using ??

    I'm using an inverter so all i use is 2% lanthanated but many with transformers are going to it also for its control advantages.

    sorry #5 cup
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Baldwin, NY
    Posts
    275

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird455 View Post
    Ok, I Just got a Syncrowave 200.............

    I mainly bought it to weld thin (.030-.063) aluminum.

    The problem is that I have an unstable (at best) arc. I am seeing a wide (1 inch Blue arc cone that has little sparks all around. What is wrong? The only cups I have are a 10n48 and a 10n50, what "number" are those (#7 , #8 etc....)? I am using a 3/32 ceriated tungsten.

    I have had great sucess welding stainless, and poor results on aluminum.

    What I would like to know is ,

    Lets say that you are welding .040 aluminum:
    What cup size?
    What flow rate?
    tungsten?
    PPS?
    AMPS?
    BALANCE?

    Thanks
    Contaminated gas? and drop your tunsten size down...
    Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.

    Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.

    2007 Silverado 2500HD (tow vehicle)
    2000 Camaro SS (Race car)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    673

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by Blackbird455 View Post
    Ok, I Just got a Syncrowave 200.............

    I mainly bought it to weld thin (.030-.063) aluminum.

    The problem is that I have an unstable (at best) arc. I am seeing a wide (1 inch Blue arc cone that has little sparks all around. What is wrong?
    I think your tungsten is too big. I see that instability on all starts; it quits as the tungsten 'gets up to temp'. Just try on a thicker test piece to see if the arc stabilizes in a second or so. Apply pedal steadily, allowing the tung to heat. The sparking should stop and a round cotton ball arc should establish.

    The only cups I have are a 10n48 and a 10n50, what "number" are those (#7 , #8 etc....)?
    The # equals 1/16ths. #8 equals 1/2". So just measure the I.D. of your cups. I use a #8 because it gives me a bigger circle to work in. Your stick-out should be no more than 1/2 your cup diameter.

    I am using a 3/32 ceriated tungsten.

    I have had great sucess welding stainless, and poor results on aluminum.

    What I would like to know is ,

    Lets say that you are welding .040 aluminum:
    What cup size?
    What flow rate?
    15-20cfh

    tungsten?
    PPS?
    AMPS?
    Maybe 100 on 1/8th. Full pedal should give you a puddle in 2-3 seconds. You shouldn't have to hold it full for very long.

    BALANCE?

    Thanks
    100% Argon is mandantory.
    Try to keep your arc down to 1/8".
    I'm assuming you've run a few practice beads on 1/8"?
    Last edited by Craig in Denver; 02-17-2008 at 09:47 PM.
    RETIRED desk jockey.

    Hobby weldor with a little training.

    Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.

    Miller Syncrowave 250.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    flat , and lots of dirt
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    Default

    One more question............What is the best way to start the arc on aluminum with a Syncrowave 200? I have absolutely no problem starting in DCEN mode on ferrous........... But on aluminum, crap shoot at best.

    Another thing.......my regulator is acting up........if I close the bottle valve and leave it sitting overnight without purging, I have to break the line slighty
    with the valve open to get any gas flow......wonder if my flow is WAYYYYY off , and I am experiencing these difficulties because of a chewed up regulator???

    Also.......I have a black soot residue on the north side of ALL of my stainless welds.........is this normal, or just another indicator that I am having flow rate malfunctions.

    BTW.........I have tried from #4 to #8 cups, gas lenses and their respective cups, and flows ranging from 8 to 30 cfm.......????.....????.....???? Anyone have any helpful thoughts?

    Also.......this may or may not be unrelated.....I had a 7 amp grinder plugged into my 115 accessory outlet, and it took way longer to get up to speed, and never reached "full" speed.......could my problems be caused by a bad/weak/insufficient/piss poor/20 year old/corroded 220v 50a plug?
    Last edited by Blackbird455; 02-20-2008 at 01:47 AM.
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
    Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
    Makita Everything else
    2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
    "Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
    USA 15T, 15V

    www.myspace.com/blackbird455

    http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Lightbulb

    Also.......this may or may not be unrelated.....I had a 7 amp grinder plugged into my 115 accessory outlet, and it took way longer to get up to speed, and never reached "full" speed.......could my problems be caused by a bad/weak/insufficient/piss poor/20 year old/corroded 220v 50a plug?

    short answer is yes.
    if the circuit is not feeding the syncrowave enough power its going to complain. thats why i had to go inverter for my shop. if its a bad/old plug i would replace it and try again. if the hole circuit is in question......supose you really don't have much choice but to get it upgraded.
    you asked about balance early-er, i don't know the syncro, but on mine i would set up as fallows.

    1/16" 2% lanthanated tung. ,
    15-20cfh argon
    0.1 sec.pre-flow,
    hot starts 20 amps,
    weld amperage of 80A,
    90 Hz,
    balance about 20%,
    post flow about 6.5 sec.

    this would be a good starting point. keep in mind the peddle is part of the equation here, as the piece heats you will need to back off a bit.
    let us know how its going, pic's would be good. if you cant post them e-mail them to me and i'll post them for ya.


    P.S. did i mention, congratulations on getting the new syncro 200. i soooo wanted one. hope this helps a bit.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    flat , and lots of dirt
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Thanks ,

    Just wanting to know about the black soot now..........
    I get it on my stainless welds, its very fine and wipes off clean.
    Is it normal?
    SYNCROWAVE 200
    Atlas 618 lathe (vintage 1960) reconditioned DC
    Sioux 3/8 Pneumatic Reversible Drill
    Makita Everything else
    2400 square feet of Sanford and Son lookin shop space
    "Once the spoon flys, putting the pin back in won't solve anything"
    USA 15T, 15V

    www.myspace.com/blackbird455

    http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...5/DSC00356.jpg two cans, one welder

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    near rochester NY
    Posts
    9,881

    Lightbulb

    black soot is not normal. metal contamination can do that. how did you prep the aluminum ?
    you can only use Stainless steel wire brushes on aluminum not standard steel brushes. also some sand papers are not good, but i cant remember which??sorry.
    i generally wipe it down with alcohol and then give it a quick brush with a SS wire wheel. not in the grinder but by hand. do the ss brush just before starting as it re-oxides up fast. also good to hit the filler with the same wipe down, scotch bright is good for this also.

    keep in mind anything you have used on steel can not be used on aluminum after. it picks up microscopic steel parts and thats enough to kill a weld on aluminum. i keep all my aluminum prep stuff separate so it never gets used on anything but aluminum. i also keep it in a closed cabinet so grinding steel dust cant get to it..
    just a few things for ya to look into as possible problems. also you cant sharpen the tungsten on a grinding wheel thats been used for steel. it embeds small pieces in it and they come out during the AC cycle. best to keep one wheel just for Tung.
    thanks for the help
    ......or..........
    hope i helped

    feel free to shoot me an e-mail direct i have time to chat. james@newyorkmetalart.com
    summer is here, plant a tree. if you don't have space or time to plant one sponsor some one else to plant one for you. a tree is an investment in our planet, help it out.
    JAMES

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