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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Hermiston Oregon
    Posts
    257

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve83:297489
    Quote Originally Posted by Danno View Post
    I wish they would have reversed the power switch location with the spoolgun switch, power in the front and spoolgun in the rear.
    I'd go further than that - I think the spoolgun switch shouldn't even exist - the machine should auto-detect when the spoolgun is connected, and react appropriately. It would take a couple of extra components on the PC board to detect the current flowing (or not) to the drive motor via the small connector, or maybe even NO changes on the PC board to wire the gun drive motor to deactivate the power supply drive motor.

    As to the power switch: I've already gotten fed up with that. I was borrowing a Lincoln with a front switch before I bought this 211, so that was a big shock to find the Miller switch on the back. I moved it last night...



    I have a few other ideas for internal mods that I'll work on later: hanging multiple spools in the case, connecting BOTH gas bottles & auto-selecting them...
    Like what you did. I might follow.
    .
    Miller Bobcat 225NT onan
    Millermatic 211
    Spoolmate 100
    (Retapped to fit regular mig tips)
    Work better & less parts to stock.
    Miller 130xp
    T/A Dragster 85 (portability 11 pounds)
    Oxygen/Acetylene torch set 50'
    2. 4-1/2" grinders
    1. 9" grinder
    14" Makita chop saw
    1/2" Aircat impact gun 900#

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Memphis, TN 38133, USA, Earth, Milky Way
    Posts
    62

    Default

    I used a Brother P-Touch with white-on-clear ES adhesive to add "ON - OFF" labels beside the switch in a font similar to the welder's original, so now it almost looks factory.

  3. #13

    Default

    Thanks Steve83. I'll be moving that switch this weekend too. It's annoying back there.

    And you are correct. The sensing components for the spool gun would cost less that the switch gear.
    ==============
    Miller 211 MVP
    Hobart StickMate LX 235
    Lincoln AC 225
    CutMaster 42

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,905

    Cool

    Your welcome to do what ever you want to, however, if it was still on warranty, it isn't now.....

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    365

    Default Cruzer...

    Are you guessing or have experience...?
    I would think that the warranty issue would have to be proven to be a result of adding/moving the switch...?
    kind of like the whole adding a tuner to your diesel truck blah, blah, blah, out there which isn't true.
    Not looking for a war, just a clarification, I trust your judgment.

    (Edit: PS sorry to second guess you)
    MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
    Just For Home Projects.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta
    Posts
    7,905

    Default

    Unless you got the ok in writing from Miller, doing ANYTHING inside the machine will nullify your warranty. I'm a Miller CST tech, and I know what you can and can not do.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Memphis, TN 38133, USA, Earth, Milky Way
    Posts
    62

    Thumbs down Warranty

    Well, it's disappointing to hear that from a Miller CST. I'm a professional, too, and I've never voided a customer's warranty on one issue because he did something UNRELATED to another part.

    But since I don't plan to put this machine anywhere NEAR its limits, I don't plan on using the warranty; not that I think my local dealer would even accept it for warranty without the mod since I didn't buy it from him. If something goes out, and Miller won't direct-ship me a replacement part, I'll buy one and install it myself.

    I wonder how long it'll be before Miller moves the switch to the front, and if they do, will mine go back INTO warranty?

    While we're on the subject, and we have a knowledgeable CST participating... Whom should I contact to get that OK in writing? It should be easier now that there's a photo showing how well the wiring was modified & repaired, right?
    Last edited by Steve83; 12-12-2012 at 07:54 PM.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Memphis, TN 38133, USA, Earth, Milky Way
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Here's the labelled switch:


  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Oregon
    Posts
    45

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve83 View Post
    Here's the labelled switch:

    **** you, why didn't I think of this mod, now I'm going to have to steal your idea!

    On my 211 I have the factory Miller cart that goes with it and had to slide a piece of 1/2" plywood behind the machine and the cart to get to the switch and its still a PITA.

    Good job!

    Danno
    Miller 350 LX Tigrunner
    Miller 350P w/XR-Pro
    Miller 250MP w/30A spool
    Miller 211 Autoset
    Hobart Tigwave 250
    Hobart Beta-Mig 251

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    602

    Default

    Sounds like YOU just gave MILLER the idea on the switch location. It will be interesting to see if they do it. Great location for it.

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