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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    12

    Default Welding bulldozer ripper blade to mild steel

    Looking for any "how to" information to weld a bulldozer ripper blade to a mild steel base plate. Company is trying to make a single ripper blade attachment, (3 feet long, 2" thick), to a 325 Cat. The on-site welders tried to weld the blade to the excavator mild steel base plate, 1.25" thick, with four very short mild steel gussets using 7018 rod with a fair amount of build up, no pre or post heat. The base plate was also cut out to insert the ripper to plug weld it from the bottom. After only a few minutes of operation, all the welds from the ripper to the mild steel base plate were broken. Not alot of information out there about doing this but I did successfully weld up a rock crusher roller about 10 years ago that was broken in half. My LWS suggested the Super Missle Weld, not sure of the number. Did a pre and post weld heat and cut the 6" round roller down to get a full pen weld on it and was still in service when they removed it from the job 3 years later. I suggested that they build a heavy duty reciever using 2" ms, 12" tall with 1 gusset forward and aft and 2 gussets on each side to the base plate and bolt the ripper in place. If they want to go without the reciever idea, any ideas what rod to use to weld the gusset directly to the ripper blade? Thanks for any input. Mike

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    northern NJ
    Posts
    1,821

    Default

    My first thought is this is just as much an engineering/design issue as it is a welding issue. If I'm visualizing this correctly it will be solid mounted to the undercarraige base plate with no adjustment?
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Williams Lake, British Columbia
    Posts
    722

    Default

    Some pictures would be handy.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    15

    Default

    Is this similiar to what you are wanting?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Langley BC Canada
    Posts
    4,634

    Default

    Your welds on this will only be as strong as the parent metal. In this case, if you're using mild steel, its never going to perform in the long run. Build the base plate out of T1 at the minimum and when you get the ripper flame cut make sure there is a large flange where it meets the base plate to allow for increased weld surface area. There's huge stresses in these rippers and large gussets out of 3/4" T1 plate will be your best friend.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    16919 Pole Rd. Brethren, MI 49619
    Posts
    4,376

    Default

    This is the kind of thing that shouldn't be so marginally engineered that the welds are approaching critical. We haven't seen pics but obviously welding thick sections together without pre heat is a good place to start as well as some QC in regards to the rod. So many possible things could be wrong here we are all making a guess but,,,, have welded a lot of this type of thing together over the years with 7018 and not an issue. A picture would certainly be a good start.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Northern CA, Shasta CO.
    Posts
    143

    Default

    What's the ripper made out of? Ductile? Some other alloy?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    732

    Default

    if you've got a ripper on a 'hoe..... in my 22 years in the business it means one thing..... the operator is beating the snot out of both machine and work tool....
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    12

    Default Welding ripper blade to mild steel

    Thanks for all the replys guys. Swamp Rat has a fairly accurate picture of what they want. From what I understand they have shortened the ripper blade by 12+ inches, the OEM bolt holes are no longer there. The other thing is, I dont know what material the CAT OEM adapter plate is made of but the base plate for the "new" ripper is regular A36 MS and is bolted up to it with 12 - 1.5" gr. 8 bolts. From what I have read on the internet, the ripper blades are made of a cast steel alloy which makes sense as the areas on the ripper blade where the welds tore away had a different, more coarse grain apperance then when you see mild steel break. The other thing is, this job is being done over on the Big Island of Hawaii and they are trying to rip up the lava rock at and below the waterline in Hilo Harbor for a new pier face and from what I understand the rock above the water will fracture fairly easily but the lave that ran into the water is tempered and is really hard. Sorry I don't have any pictures for you guys, (I always document my welding with photos), but I just went over there for a diving job and only air arc'd the ripper from the base and tried to design some support gussets to strengthen it. Just trying to get the right info so that the onsite welders can get it done right this time. Do you think that the preheat using 7018 will work and if so, what temp are we looking for? Thanks for all the replys and any future info. Mike

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Langley BC Canada
    Posts
    4,634

    Default

    Well, if it is cast then that is something different than I have experienced on rippers. I can tell you how I welded the ones I've come across. The rippers I have worked on were cut from solid high-alloy plate, such as a high grade T series or AR series. I preheated to 225F and maintained inter-pass temps of under 400F, and used a 110,000psi low-hydrogen compatible consumable. There may be better ways, but I never had a call back on one. If Calweld is here still he may have some better input, as he tended to work on the larger stuff and I was pretty well limited to working on machines under 30 tons for lack of having large enough welders.

    We had a 450 excavator with a ripper on it that literally tore the end of the boom out from itself, it pulled the pin that connects the stick and boom through the pin bosses in the end of the boom, apart like they were made of plastic. It was an interesting sight to see.

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