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Thread: Engine Block

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by CSTKmauro View Post
    I have used a flame spray torch made by ESAB which is the only way I would repair cast iron. For more details on how it works you could go online and look it up. But I have had a lot of success with it. Basically it's a oxygen and acetylene torch with a built in hoper and when depress the trigger you start spraying metal which has the same properties has the cast iron base metal so it will cool at the same rate so you don't get any crakes. Its truly awesome. I know my company stocks them at www.airweld.net but you can find them all over. Good luck.
    Wow, those things or over $3K.. Ouch. Looks just like a reg oxy/acet with a hopper.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Salem ,Ohio
    Posts
    3,909

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by mikeb9550 View Post
    Wow, those things or over $3K.. Ouch. Looks just like a reg oxy/acet with a hopper.
    I sold a brand new one for 200...Bob
    Bob Wright, Grandson of Tee Nee Boat Trailer Founder
    Metal Master Fab Salem, Oh 44460
    Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drill
    1999 MM185 w/185 Spoolgun,1986 Thunderbolt AC/DC
    Spool Gun conversion. How To Do It. Below.
    http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...php?albumid=48

  3. #13

    Default

    I believe a seemingly primal approach to this issue will suffice, I was told by a welding consultant that when working with a cast iron engine block, any rod cast metal may be used (after being heated to roughly 250) then dipped into a granular flux, once cooled and used as a typical filler rod in the Oxy-fuel process.as far as I understood from the lecture...the preheating of both pieces is crucial for complete fusion.
    Hope this is helpful!

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