Miller Dynasty 300DX problem, video inside.

[marlon88]

Hi guys,

I need your help about a problem I am having with my Dynasty 300DX.

Since I bought the machine I only used it to weld stainless steel on DC mode. Today I tried welding aluminum for the first time on AC mode. When I tried to establish a weld pool it started the arc but could not develop a weld pool like there was not enough power. Amps were set to about 180 so with that amps it should melt the 1/4 inch aluminum flat bar I was trying on. Then I turned up a bit more frequency and changed ac balance, then when I tried to start an arc, it started doing a clicking noise from the lower/rear part of the machine and when I looked at the machine, the display was flickering and some of the green lights coming on and off.

I discovered that the machine only does this when set on HF start . On Lift Arc mode it welds fine in DC mode on stainless steel, but in AC it does not start an arc no matter what settings I try.

Here is a video of the clicking noise it is doing when on HF start when I press the pedal. It does it in DC and AC mode.

http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=DSCN5844.mp4

Can you please help me out? I bought the machine used and the company I bought it from assured me that the machine works perfectly.

Before contacting the company I bought it from, what do you guys think the problem is? Has anyone experienced this problem? Any tech guys from Miller can give me their input? I come from Malta (Europe), I imported the machine from Uk. There are only couple of Miller machines on the island and I don't have anywhere I can take it to be checked out, because there is no dealer in Malta.

Hope to hear from you guys soon,

Thanks
Marlon

[TJS]

Turn up the heat more. You have a foot pedal don't you. 180 amps will have you waiting to get a puddle going. You have 300 amps man. I always wonder why people are scared to turn up the amps when they have the machine that will do it.
Also, post what your settings are. I would start with at least 225 amps (I would use 245 amps), balance 74-76 and frequency about 130hz or so. I don't like to wait for a puddle and hover around with the torch, hence higher amps for me. If you cannot get a puddle in less than three seconds then turn up the heat. Simple as that.

Oh, and your hard starting issue, welcome to inverter technology without "blue lightning" technology. You need to scratch the tungsten on your work before pressing the pedal when this happens(not scratch start). I am so used to doing this I do it all the time.

Here is a video for a Miller Tech expert explaining your exact situation. I still think doing this is bogus, but it is the nature of the beast. You really need to read the Dynasty process (I think it is a sticky). Not trying to be harsh here but you will eliminate a lot of grief if you just sit down and read it and maybe re-read it.
T.J.

Here is the vid from Andy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2_kWSG0RBg

[cruizer]

I think your on a set of preset preprogrammed parameters, and your not letting the machine follow them. So the machine is saying what the FXXK is going on here.

If you got this machine used, you might want to do a machine reset.

[marlon88]

Thanks for the replies guys.

That was my first time using the machine in AC mode. I saw some videos about a tech guy from miller explaining the machine settings so I got to know a few things first. Since it was my first time I started with 180 amps because I was not sure what was going to happen and I was sort of experimenting. The thing is now that the machine now looks like it developed a fault and is doing the clicking/flickering, if you see the video you know what I'm talking about.

The manual for my machine is this: http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o358a_mil.pdf

I can't find what buttons to press to do a factory preset, any help please?

Your help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Marlon

[farmerfred]

I just bought the same model of the Dynasty 300DX. I came from a repair shop in a factory that shut down and the memory settings were locked. It explains how to lock them in the manual. Look in section 4-13. If they are locked with a code and you do not know the code contact Miller Tech and they can walk you through unlocking it by doing a 4 button reset. I had to do this to mine.This procedure is not shown in the manual. Good luck.
Tom

[marlon88]

The machine is not locked, I can go to what ever settings I want and change anything. I put in all the factory parameter default settings copied from Dynasty 300dx manual http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o358ag_mil.pdf and the machine still acts the same.

One thing that I wish to add is, when yesterday I switched it on, I was able to start arc on AC with HF start but after 5 sec it just shut down the arc and when I pressed the pedal again it started doing the clicking/flickering noise so I think that it has to be a fault when the machine welds on AC.

[4sfed]

Hi guys,

I need your help about a problem I am having with my Dynasty 300DX.

Since I bought the machine I only used it to weld stainless steel on DC mode. Today I tried welding aluminum for the first time on AC mode. When I tried to establish a weld pool it started the arc but could not develop a weld pool like there was not enough power. Amps were set to about 180 so with that amps it should melt the 1/4 inch aluminum flat bar I was trying on. Then I turned up a bit more frequency and changed ac balance, then when I tried to start an arc, it started doing a clicking noise from the lower/rear part of the machine and when I looked at the machine, the display was flickering and some of the green lights coming on and off.

I discovered that the machine only does this when set on HF start . On Lift Arc mode it welds fine in DC mode on stainless steel, but in AC it does not start an arc no matter what settings I try.


Hope to hear from you guys soon,

Thanks
Marlon

Your panel has a completely different layout from mine, but it appears you have selected the "remote trigger hold" (button 2) and the pulse function (button 12). For A/C tig welding using HF start and a foot pedal, select buttons 1, 5 and 20 . . . for D/C tig select 1, 5 and 23.



With "remote trigger hold" selected, the machine is expecting you to push and release the pedal. It will then start the weld program you have set. By holding the pedal down continuously, I believe the machine is repeatedly trying to restart the program.

[marlon88]

Hi 4sfed,

I use button 12 to set the total amps that I want to weld when button 1 (remote trigger) is selected. On the manual it says that button 16 is the On/Off for the pulser not button 12. Button 12 on the manual it says that its for Tig weld amps and peak amps when pulser is selected. So since the pulser is turned off, I am using button 12 to control total amps. Am I using the wrong button to set the total amps? What button do I have to use to set amps that I want to weld with? Is it button 14( Final amperage control)? But on the manual it says that when on remote trigger ( button 1 ) "when a foot or finger remote is connected to the welding power source , initial amps , initial slope , final slope and final amps are not functional.

[4sfed]

marlon,

Sorry, I assumed you were using a foot pedal. Yes, when using a switch pad, you set final amps with button 12, so select it along with buttons 1, 5 and 20. The problem comes when you select button 2. The machine is looking for you to depress and release the remote trigger in order to start ramping up the current. You would then press and release it again to begin the ramp down. If you continue to hold the trigger down, the machine repeatedly tries to restart the sequence.

When you select button 1, the arc will ramp up as soon as the remote trigger is pushed then continue at the selected amps until the button is released . . . at which time it will begin the ramp down.

Button 3 gives you more options and is described well on page 23 of your manual.

[marlon88]

Kevin Meier, no that button only controls amps when on stick welding mode.

4sfed, I am using a foot pedal. So if not using button 12 to control total amps, which button controls the max amps when using foot pedal? I normaly use the machine on 1 button, on the video it is showing button 2 ON but that's to show that the machine is doing the clicking noise on all modes. I always used the machine to weld on button 1.