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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    58

    Default Welding table... another one, why not?

    Well I need a table for TIG welding (that isn't made out of wood LOL )

    So I looked up a bunch of different ways people were doing it, and I decided to try and keep it as budget minded as possible (which isn't easy).

    I am essentially building a bottom and then attaching a table top separate just in case the table top warps or I want to go with something different in the future. I haven't decided how I will mount the top yet but it is 2'x4' 3/16 A36 hot roll since I can't afford much more than that.

    The base will be inset 2" all the way around to allow for clamping room and possibility of adding a 4" or 5" vise as well. The base is comprised of 2" square 1/8" thick.

    Here are a few pics:










    I have a drawing of the dimensions I will post a pic of later.

    Total cost into this: $258.67 At the moment, that is metal only. (Although I did run out of wire last night while welding :-( ) More pics to come!
    Miller Mig 140 Autoset (2010)
    Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)

    I have a lot to learn.

    -Joe

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    PA
    Posts
    357

    Default

    550,

    I have made several welding tables over the years and each one was (I thought ) the best and last one.

    But each new one builds upon the knowledge and drawbacks of the previous version.

    It is always a tough call to balance cost versus features.

    Champagne tastes and desires on a beer budget.

    I do like your idea of separate base and top so you can upgrade or modify later.

    This is your table - personalize it.

    Steel and welding are like clay to a potter.

    Always easy to rework although steel may be a bit easier to rework than clay which has been fired.

    Good luck.
    Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, Miller Dynasty 350, Hypertherm 1000, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, etc.:

    Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Burnt hands View Post
    550,

    I have made several welding tables over the years and each one was (I thought ) the best and last one.

    But each new one builds upon the knowledge and drawbacks of the previous version.

    It is always a tough call to balance cost versus features.

    Champagne tastes and desires on a beer budget.

    I do like your idea of separate base and top so you can upgrade or modify later.

    This is your table - personalize it.

    Steel and welding are like clay to a potter.

    Always easy to rework although steel may be a bit easier to rework than clay which has been fired.

    Good luck.
    Thanks, I figure this will go through some different iterations. I should have some more pics soon.

    It's a slow build, I have so many other things going on... and my TIG argon valve seems to be bad so I gotta replace that now too. It never ends LOL
    Miller Mig 140 Autoset (2010)
    Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)

    I have a lot to learn.

    -Joe

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    northern NJ
    Posts
    1,856

    Default

    If all you bought was 1 length of 2x2x1/8x 24' & 1 pc 3/16x2'x4' for $260 you should look for a new supplier. That is only about 140# so you paid double what I would pay.

    Maybe an expanded metal shelf underneath & some hooks to hang stuff. A bar running from leg to leg about 6 inches below the top for hanging clamps.

    Why not mount the top with counter sunk screws? Or you can just put a few tacks that can be easily ground off if needed.
    MM250
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    58

    Default

    I bought 33' worth of 2x2 sq at 1/8"

    And then the top plate..


    Is that closer to what you pay?

    I will definitely have some kind of hooks, and I was thinking counter sinking the screws into the frame through the top. That maybe the best idea. Once I get the base built completely I will have a better look at it. (Especially with the casters on)
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by 550; 10-25-2011 at 07:15 AM.
    Miller Mig 140 Autoset (2010)
    Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)

    I have a lot to learn.

    -Joe

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    365

    Default One thing I notice;

    You paid no attention to the direction of the seam…might matter, might not. Just something I noticed and something to think about. I know it is just 1/8” but drill and tapping it might have been an option especially with thicker tube. Not saying you can’t the way you did it, just might give you more trouble.
    MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
    Just For Home Projects.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Doughboyracer View Post
    You paid no attention to the direction of the seam…might matter, might not. Just something I noticed and something to think about. I know it is just 1/8” but drill and tapping it might have been an option especially with thicker tube. Not saying you can’t the way you did it, just might give you more trouble.
    Touche. I really did over look it. Hmm :-/ That may end up being my bottom piece then.
    Miller Mig 140 Autoset (2010)
    Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)

    I have a lot to learn.

    -Joe

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Goochland, Va
    Posts
    32

    Default

    I have found that welding is so much faster than the drill/tap/screw/bolt approach that I rarely use fasteners in my projects if I can design things to be welded instead.

    You might object and say, "But what if I want to change tops?" - think long and hard about how much time it will take to grind out/cut the old one off and weld the new one versus unbolting/unscrewing then going through the whole drill/tap exercise again on the new top.

    I suspect that at worst the time will be about the same, but in reality I believe that welding is faster and easier than fasteners. Remember - you don't need a continuous weld along the entire top/frame joint - it should be an intermittent or stitch weld.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    58

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gwiley View Post
    I have found that welding is so much faster than the drill/tap/screw/bolt approach that I rarely use fasteners in my projects if I can design things to be welded instead.

    You might object and say, "But what if I want to change tops?" - think long and hard about how much time it will take to grind out/cut the old one off and weld the new one versus unbolting/unscrewing then going through the whole drill/tap exercise again on the new top.

    I suspect that at worst the time will be about the same, but in reality I believe that welding is faster and easier than fasteners. Remember - you don't need a continuous weld along the entire top/frame joint - it should be an intermittent or stitch weld.
    I do agree with you 100% but I didn't have enough to spring for a 1/2" top. I had to cut the budget somewhere :-/

    My thoughts were to weld on nuts to the table base (as opposed to drill/tapping) I hate tapping things, and maybe that's just because I don't do it a lot (Although with how much I do automotive wise... I should probably get with the program hah)

    I do agree also, that drilling holes accurately in this top could be more of a pain in the butt than it's worth.
    Miller Mig 140 Autoset (2010)
    Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)

    I have a lot to learn.

    -Joe

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    365

    Default Tapping...

    I would not "tap" the table top. As a matter of fact, I would not tap the cross members. I would drill and counter sink the top and drill the cross members to match for self-tapping fasteners...My 2 cents...again.
    MillerMatic 211 Auto-set w/MVP
    Just For Home Projects.

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