Well I need a table for TIG welding (that isn't made out of wood LOL)
So I looked up a bunch of different ways people were doing it, and I decided to try and keep it as budget minded as possible (which isn't easy).
I am essentially building a bottom and then attaching a table top separate just in case the table top warps or I want to go with something different in the future. I haven't decided how I will mount the top yet but it is 2'x4' 3/16 A36 hot roll since I can't afford much more than that.
The base will be inset 2" all the way around to allow for clamping room and possibility of adding a 4" or 5" vise as well. The base is comprised of 2" square 1/8" thick.
Here are a few pics:
I have a drawing of the dimensions I will post a pic of later.
Total cost into this: $258.67 At the moment, that is metal only. (Although I did run out of wire last night while welding :-( ) More pics to come!
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10-24-2011, 07:42 AM #1
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Welding table... another one, why not?
Miller Mig 140 Autoset (2010)
Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
I have a lot to learn.
-Joe
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10-24-2011, 09:01 PM #2
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550,
I have made several welding tables over the years and each one was (I thought ) the best and last one.
But each new one builds upon the knowledge and drawbacks of the previous version.
It is always a tough call to balance cost versus features.
Champagne tastes and desires on a beer budget.
I do like your idea of separate base and top so you can upgrade or modify later.
This is your table - personalize it.
Steel and welding are like clay to a potter.
Always easy to rework although steel may be a bit easier to rework than clay which has been fired.
Good luck.
Thermal Arc GTSW400, Airco Heliwelder II, Miller Dynasty 350, Hypertherm 1000, oxy-fuel setup, metal cutting bandsaw, air compressor, drill press, etc.
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Call me the "Clouseau" of welding !
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10-25-2011, 05:43 AM #3
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Miller Mig 140 Autoset (2010)
Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
I have a lot to learn.
-Joe
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10-25-2011, 06:04 AM #4
If all you bought was 1 length of 2x2x1/8x 24' & 1 pc 3/16x2'x4' for $260 you should look for a new supplier. That is only about 140# so you paid double what I would pay.
Maybe an expanded metal shelf underneath & some hooks to hang stuff. A bar running from leg to leg about 6 inches below the top for hanging clamps.
Why not mount the top with counter sunk screws? Or you can just put a few tacks that can be easily ground off if needed.MM250
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10-25-2011, 06:12 AM #5
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I bought 33' worth of 2x2 sq at 1/8"
And then the top plate..
Is that closer to what you pay?
I will definitely have some kind of hooks, and I was thinking counter sinking the screws into the frame through the top. That maybe the best idea. Once I get the base built completely I will have a better look at it. (Especially with the casters on)Last edited by 550; 10-25-2011 at 06:15 AM.
Miller Mig 140 Autoset (2010)
Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
I have a lot to learn.
-Joe
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10-25-2011, 11:52 AM #6
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One thing I notice;
You paid no attention to the direction of the seam…might matter, might not. Just something I noticed and something to think about. I know it is just 1/8” but drill and tapping it might have been an option especially with thicker tube. Not saying you can’t the way you did it, just might give you more trouble.
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