I just signed a contract for a property that has a 42x60 shop on it. I am looking to do something with the gas lines. I am thinking of making some kind of manifold system that will run along one 60' side of the building. I run 3 different gases normally and can have as many as 10 in the shop for different jobs. I would like 3 gases to be on 3 - 1/2" pipe runs w/ misc quick connects but what would be a good set-up for the tank area? I keep all my gases on brass quick connects so I can change fast and it won't affect the threads.
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Thread: New Shop
08-01-2011, 12:03 PM #1
08-01-2011, 07:00 PM #2
Are you talking just shielding gases or burning gases also? I would check with fire/building inspector & insurance co. first. They would be able to tell you what they want to see.
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08-02-2011, 06:17 AM #3
It would be for shielding gases only. I'm not stupid enough to put flammable gasses on a manifold system for here and there use.
08-03-2011, 06:23 PM #4Senior Member
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Bossier Parish La.
Isn't this going to take up a lot of gas to fill a 1/2 inch line 60' long vs. just the hose from the cylinder to the machine? Every time you change to a different gas, the line will have to be purged and refilled with the new gas for best results. Seems kind of wasteful to me. Now if you had a dedicated line for each type of gas that might be a different story. All you would be doing is putting on a fresh cylinder and repressure the line. You said there would be 3 lines and up to 10 different gasses, that's still a bunch of gas to be purged each time you change cylinders. Might be time for a rethink on this, how many CF does a 1/2" x 60' line hold? How often do you make a change in gas?
08-03-2011, 07:22 PM #5
That is why I am asking yall. I usually use agron, 90/10, and tri mix every day. But i do keep 50/50 helium, 98/2, and more on hand for different applications. I would run 3 dedicated lines for my 3 common gases. But I am looking more into information into the manifold then the lines themselves. Of course every change out would cost me a lot of gas, and I am trying to avoid that with different ways to build the set-up.
For odd gases, I would just run a standard gas line from the regulator to the welder. But this is a pain in the but when I am running multiple jobs or large jobs at the same time and I am trying to keep all the bottles on one end of the building.
08-04-2011, 11:46 AM #6Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
- Near Dallas, TX
60' = 720". Volume = A*L = 141 cu inch.
1 cu ft = 12"x12"x12" = 1728 cu inch.
So the line holds about 0.08 cu ft of volume. At 30psi (about 2 atmosphere) this is 0.16 cu ft of gas. Not a big deal to flush the lines.
I'd be more worried about guys in the shop getting confused about what gas is in what line at the time, and ruining a piece of work using the wrong gas. That's probably going to cost way more than the gas to flush the line.
If you run a higher pressure regulator on the tanks (100 psi maybe) you might get away with 1/4" line. It depends on how much flow you need at any give time (how many guys are drawing from the same pipe and how much). You may need secondary regulators at each outlet. You'll need individual flow meters at each outlet anyway so each outlet's flow doesn't steal gas from the others. Having regulators at each outlet will help keep the flow at each outlet more stable when someone else makes a big draw.
I probably wouldn't use quick disconnects on the bottle side. This sounds like just another chance to have a leak. You'll be removing the regulators from the tanks when they get empty. Why not just use a longer stainless braided hose between the regulator and the manifold and leave it permanently installed. Install a ball valve between each hose and the manifold, and a purge ball valve. This way you can shut off one hose, disconnect the regulator from the bottle, connect up the new bottle, open the bottle valve to pressurize the hose, vent a little gas on the purge ball valve to flush any air, then open the valve to the manifold. No connections to get worn out other than the regulator-to-tank attachment, which you have to unhook anyway. The ball valves let you exchange one tank while leaving all the others connected and the distribution pipe pressurized.
Victor O/A, Smith AW1A
9" South Bend